Knife in the Toaster
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 134 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Bryan Burdo (1993) |
Page Views: | 3,486 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | alpineH on Aug 1, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
A short route with a crux at the very end. A few standard Write-off moves to the low-angle area with the giant bolt, then steeper climbing with smooth feet to a horizontal crack. Trust those edges and grab something over the top to clip the anchors.
Protection
5 bolts. The third bolt is a giant ring which most carabiners could not clip into. The two-bolt anchor has chains - one set of chains with a steel lowering carabiner on each one, and an extra set of chains for using your own gear. Neither are really equalized though, both are fairly uneven, so it's hard to see what the point is.
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