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Routes in Wildflower Wall

Brother Wolf T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sister Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Wildflower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Kear and Carolyn Parker, 28 Sept 1996
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Aug 1, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

See Mick Schein's guide "Sandia Rock" (2003) for a detailed description of the route. However, the bolted anchor at the top of the 1st pitch is at the 1st ledge of 2 that are above the small pillar - not at the 2nd ledge as shown in the guide's topo. Also, the bolted crux is immediately above that 2nd ledge.

Overall, the first two pitches mostly ascend straight up from the base of the route. The third pitch has a mantel roughly 30 feet above the bolted belay. After the mantel, a huge rounded trough or shoot is visible a little higher on the wall and to the right. Pitch 3 ends in the lower part of the shoot. The 4th pitch continues up through this shoot, then trends up and right to/past a dead tree and a bolt. A little above the bolt, trend left and up to the top.

To exit from the top of the route, make a modest and careful hike/scramble up and right which in essence returns one to the top of The Watchtower.

The leader should be comfortable with 5.5 (?) run-out terrain, particularly at the start of the 2nd pitch (unless I missed something).

Location

Locate the base of the north end of the wall (see Wildflower Wall for descent options). Turn around and hike back south along the base of the wall (about 30 feet?) until able to locate a roughly 50 foot tall pillar that is largely in contact with the main wall. The route starts to the climber's left of this pillar; see this photo:


Note that although “Sandia Rock” indicates a 4th class traverse on ledges to a stand of aspens at the base of the climb, that stand of aspen can be easily reached entirely on foot after rappelling. And see Wildflower Wall for descent options.

Protection

Gear to 2 ½ inches although most placements are at or less than 1 ½ inches. Besides nuts, gear less than ½ inch would be useful. Anchors from bottom to top: bolts, bolts, gear, and tree(s).

Marc suggests below adding a couple Tri Cams to the rack, the red one in particular.

Photos

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