Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,894 total · 57/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

24 Opinions

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Approach from Maybird Gulch for either the couloir or the ridge proper.

Descend the East Ridge returning either to Maybird Gulch via the headwall or eastern colouirs or traverse east to the head of Red Pine Canyon. Either way be aware of avalanche danger - including while descending from the summit.


As much of the route can be simu-climbed only a few nuts and cams along with a short rope are needed.
This is a great winter climb. I must say, if you do the lower ridge, plan on some difficult and unprotected climbing to pass the rock towers. Dec 2, 2007
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4 Easy Snow
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4 Easy Snow
Agreed. Traverse on lower ridge w/ old fixed line clipped to old questionable pitons if I remember right. March '08. Awesome route when done together though - plan on full day Oct 2, 2008
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Out of the various "true" winter/spring mountaineering lines I've done in the Wasatch, this is by far my favorite. While the S Ridge of Superior is listed as having a higher technical rating, the N Ridge of Pfeiff is far more committing, sustained, and technical (at least in my book). Don't underestimate the route because of its 5.4 rating (though the lower part of the ridge is more difficult, and can be skipped - but don't!).

EDIT: I don't mean to oversell it, me and my partner felt pretty comfortable simul climbing almost the entire way, but it is definitely exposed, and if doing it in winter with crampons on the slab traverse on the lower half of the ridge is quite spicy. Mar 12, 2013
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4 Easy Snow
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4 Easy Snow
A really amazing route. One of my favorite I have ever done. We did the Couloir B Variation (as seen on summitpost).

Pitch 1: Climb Couloir. Gets steep the last 15 ft.
Pitch 2: Short pitch 30 ft or so. Dug a ledge and roped up for a short mixed pitch. Dont top out the couloir. Instead rope up jet to the left about 25+ ft from the top I ended up having to dig through a cornice.
Pitch 3: 5.easy full rope length
Pitch 4: 5.easy some of the best climbing in the whole climb. Full rope length. Unrope, walk to Slab pitch.
Pitch 5: Slab pitch.
Pitch 6: 5.4 Crux to a ramp.
Pitch 7: Mod snow.
Pitch 8: Mod snow. Summit.

Thats how we did it with a group of three. Have fun. Jul 3, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Fun summer solo scramble. Just under 3 hours CTC up maybird, down redpine. 3-4 handlines across the east facing slabs and some old webbing tied off a tower down low where a fall would send you on a 300 foot deathdrop to the talus below are very reassuring and make this a 5.4 AO climb. Outside of those sections, its mostly secure with the scariest parts being the loose talus fields up high once you've completed the actual rock climbing.

The official climb starts from Small Pass(low point on Hogum Divide), but you can bypass a lot of the lower ridge by staying low in the drainage and then accessing the ridge proper via some NE facing loose gullies(no fun) if that suits you. Aug 15, 2013
Went for the summer solo and turned around at the rappel... Maybe we were just in our heads a bit but I didn't exactly feel comfortable putting my full weight on any of the blocks up there. Jul 11, 2016
I soloed this climb mid August. I thought It was a loose hunk of junk and wouldn't recommend a summer acsent. It maybe a 3 star route in winter but in summer conditions I would hesitate giving it 1 star due to loose rock and little 5th class climbing. I would rate this 4th class or 5.0. There are one or two 5th class moves but they are so short I don't think this should get 5.4. There weren't fixed lines as mentioned in other comments. Be careful on the blocky traverse just past the crux. Aug 19, 2016
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
Just soloed the Couloir A Variation today. Snow was good, lots of pinwheels, but solid underfoot. Didn't cause any slides. Lots of loose rock, took my time around the upper crux where footing and hands are more important. Very airy pulling around some of those features on the east side of the ridge up high. Great fun, have to find a partner and do it from the bottom of the ridge-line. May 15, 2018