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Routes in Main Wall

Afternoon Delight (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bambi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grand Wall-Z Cracks Route List T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Guide's Wail S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
High Noon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moonlight (Thumper Direct) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
S.O.S. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabadellic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slope on a Rope S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thimbleberry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Thumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Uzi-Waza Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Z-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Spurlock
Page Views: 1,079 total, 9/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

More interesting than it looks. This route begins with two bolts below a thin crack/seam just right of the huge right-facing corner system on the main wall. Once past the bolts, work both crack systems (the corner to the left and thin seam to the right) as the opportunities for handholds and gear presents themselves. Long slings prevent any rope drag.

This pitch, while not technically difficult or hard-to-protect, offers plenty of enjoyable suspense.

A second pitch is available at 12b, but I didn't (um, can't) do it.

Protection

2 bolts plus gear. Bring gear from small nuts/TCUs to #1 camalot. There was a pod for a #3 or #4 camalot, but a green camalot (sort of) fit in the same area. C3s went in nicely in a few places. Ends at bolt anchors.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
This is a really sweet route, that could use some more traffic in the initial corner. IMO it is a much better start than using the bolted variation. You might enjoy doubles of small TCU-size cams but a single set is sufficient. Standard rack to 3 camalot otherwise. Aug 12, 2013
Stevie Nacho   Utah
I vote this really good route should be rated 5.10a


TDA Oct 26, 2008
HI Folks--
This climb was done well before Dan Spurlocks ascent. No bolts were used .As is the unfortunate case with many climbs here,bolts were placed well after the early ascents.---Jeff Newsom May 27, 2008