Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
FA: H. Herr, D. Peterson
Page Views: 8,498 total · 59/month
Shared By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007 with improvements by natsdad
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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A splitter finger crack and layback in a corner.


Located just left of McTech Arete


Standard Rack


This is a really good line. Visible from Applebee it just beckons, and doesn't disappoint. We did this as one 71m pitch, which was a little presumptuous. Do it as two, rope management is better and you need some recoup time at the belay. Pitch 1 has a blocky start, followed by a thin corner. Mid 10. Pitch 2, the goods, is thin, slightly overhanging and sustained hard 10 climbing with a solid 11 crux. Pull that little lip, and there is another 40 ft of hands and fists to the anchors on top of McTech. Aug 6, 2008
Canada Mofuga
hanshan   Canada Mofuga
You can climb this in one amazing 70m pitch. Aug 22, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
An elite first ascent team put this route up in 1979.

Hugh Herr was young and very good at freeing aid routes, before cams were available. Just after he did Energy Crisis, we attempted the Southeast Rib of Pigeon. Hugh freed the roof on the first hard pitch, and then weather drove us down. Not long after, Hugh lost both feet to frostbite and then was famous for inventing prosthetic limbs that allowed him to climb extreme routes.

Don Peterson was Royal Robbins partner on the epic first ascent of Tis-sa-ack on Half Dome. Dec 13, 2012