Avg: 2.1 from 10 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||595 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007|
|Admins:||Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon|
I debated how to write this one up, it can be a very exciting, semi-sandbagged 5.10a, or a boring severely over-rated one.
The original line went up the yellow flowstone on small pockets, and then through the small overhang with the black stalactite. You can get a good no hands rest here, and a taller person can clip the next bolt from the rest.
The rebolting took this line a bit left, allowing weaker climbers to go out around the cruxes on loose horizontal jugs. In recent years Southern Thailand has seen a lot of gumby climbers, usually fresh out of an American climbing gym. They have cleaned up the loose rock on the left and put enough chalk on the holds to make it the normal way of ascent. The grade went from a 6b to 6a (5.10b to 5.9).
There is a second pitch to this climb, all threads. Doing it in one go would make it a 35 meter 5.10d or something. I have contemplated chopping everything, and rebolting the original route as well as the steep finish. This would make for a good long hard 5.10, but would probably get a few gumby gym climbers hurt.
Anyways, the route is a good 5.9 if you're a 5.9 climber or a good 5.10 if you're a good 5.10 climber. Stay tuned to see if I change it.
From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:
- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)