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Routes in Tonsai Tower

3D Zone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Andrea's Spine Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ban Dai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baron Von Tok S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baron Von Tok, le Retour S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Birthday Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brian Fagman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British, Russian, or Nineteen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cottonbrains of Infancy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crisis? What Crisis? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gladiator S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Going Dutch S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Copulation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanna's Gift S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Noon (Formerly Mr. Phi Phi) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jug City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kiss the Serpent S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Latitude Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lois Lane S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr Viper, Mr. Pit Viper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pai Noon Mai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peyote Detour S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Picking Beans in Guatemala S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of the Andaman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rev de Phi Phi Don S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scenic Bulimic S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Seven Samurai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Severed Garden, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
So, So, Sooo...People Come & People Go S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sol y Sombra S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanish Caravan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stir Fried Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stolen Russian Submarine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sut Yawd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Musketeers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trong Pai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertical Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Hilding Gnoeters
Page Views: 388 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description


I debated how to write this one up, it can be a very exciting, semi-sandbagged 5.10a, or a boring severely over-rated one.

The original line went up the yellow flowstone on small pockets, and then through the small overhang with the black stalactite. You can get a good no hands rest here, and a taller person can clip the next bolt from the rest.

The rebolting took this line a bit left, allowing weaker climbers to go out around the cruxes on loose horizontal jugs. In recent years Southern Thailand has seen a lot of gumby climbers, usually fresh out of an American climbing gym. They have cleaned up the loose rock on the left and put enough chalk on the holds to make it the normal way of ascent. The grade went from a 6b to 6a (5.10b to 5.9).

There is a second pitch to this climb, all threads. Doing it in one go would make it a 35 meter 5.10d or something. I have contemplated chopping everything, and rebolting the original route as well as the steep finish. This would make for a good long hard 5.10, but would probably get a few gumby gym climbers hurt.

Anyways, the route is a good 5.9 if you're a 5.9 climber or a good 5.10 if you're a good 5.10 climber. Stay tuned to see if I change it.

Location

Middle Sector. When you get to the wall, you will see a large section of loose rock on your left, and several anchors 65 feet straight up. To the right a bit is an obvious arete. "Scenic Bulimic" takes the line up the left side of the arete, and "Andrea's Spine Line" goes up the right side. "Gladiator" takes the intimidating overhang that goes up left, just before the loose rock begins. The rest of the climbs are between. Multi-pitch to the top starts in this sector. Many shared anchors. See individual route descriptions!

From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:

- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)

Protection

Ti and SS glue in bolts, threads. 10 draws to the first anchor, take 15 or 16 for the full 35 meters.

Photos

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