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Routes in Tioga Wall

Bag O' Tricks T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joint Effort S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Master Cylinder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Poindexter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Silver Bullet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Stones Throw T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swiss Chocolate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Throwin' the Finger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Torqued S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Reid/Cashner
Page Views: 1,215 total · 9/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A real gem and arguably one of the best routes (and its fully trad!!) at the cliff! One of the better routes of the grade/style in the area! Way better (and more solid) than it looks. Definitely has cleaned up since the first time I was on it maybe 10 years ago!

Steep blocks and 5.9 jamming gets you to a funky section with cool moves up and left (Red Alien size in the low flare -- #0 TCU or #00 TCU (better) in the middle of the 10d-ish moves). A 5.10 section with good gear links into the upper headwall seam and radical crux bulge. A #6 Stopper is bomber in an obvious hole before stemming moves up and out right. Its too hard to get anything worth trying to place before the last opening in the seam just before the bulge. Place a nut (#5 HB) low and shallow or a BD .1 Micro-Camalot from a barndoor stance/stem. Now the door is swinging wide open. Control the urge to swing out and punch it! Lieback, pinch and yard yourself over the bulge to a jam and good edges where a #1 TCU fits nicely. Cruise to the bolted anchor...11d/12a


offset brass piece for crux (#5 HB is best) or .1 BD Micro Camalot (better yet), full set of wired nuts, cams from #00 TCU to #2 Camalot sizes



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