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Mai Pen Rai
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 35 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,299 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Jul 30, 2007 |
Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Start on a ledge 10 feet above a pit that lies almost at sea level. Clip the first bolt before you even start youll see why. Although the guidebooks give this a 5.10b/c the first 15 feet or so are thin, very thin for a 10b. Its all there though, and very well protected. Find the feet, step left over the chasm, and start working up towards the next bolt. By the time you clip your third bolt, it eases up considerably and you get to just cruise up and take in the view: the red walls, green plants, blue waters, and white sands of Thailand. It is a great climb, 4/5 stars for sure, but with the ambiance I give it 5/5.
Location
Once you enter The Defile, you will find Mai Pen Rai on the red wall on your right. The route starts on a ledge 10 feet above a pit almost at sea level. To your right should be a sloping hill going further right and up, out of The Defile. Fairly obvious, the route ascends up and works left over a couple of flake-type tuffas to a shared anchor. As of summer 07, it was the only of the routes on the wall with titanium bolts.
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