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Routes in The Defile

Allo, La Terre S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Baboon's Ass S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krabi Krabi S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mai Pen Rai S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Gone To Heaven S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thank You, Sophie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,108 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 30, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Start on a ledge 10 feet above a pit that lies almost at sea level. Clip the first bolt before you even start – you’ll see why. Although the guidebooks give this a 5.10b/c the first 15 feet or so are thin, very thin for a 10b. It’s all there though, and very well protected. Find the feet, step left over the chasm, and start working up towards the next bolt. By the time you clip your third bolt, it eases up considerably and you get to just cruise up and take in the view: the red walls, green plants, blue waters, and white sands of Thailand. It is a great climb, 4/5 stars for sure, but with the ambiance I give it 5/5.

Location

Once you enter The Defile, you will find Mai Pen Rai on the red wall on your right. The route starts on a ledge 10 feet above a pit almost at sea level. To your right should be a sloping hill going further right and up, out of The Defile. Fairly obvious, the route ascends up and works left over a couple of flake-type tuffas to a shared anchor. As of summer 07, it was the only of the routes on the wall with titanium bolts.

Protection

All retro-bolted with new titanium single pieces, and well protected. Still, this route sits over the water, so the usual should be said: all bolts are suspect.

Photos

Paul H
Pennsylvania
 
Paul H   Pennsylvania
 
A little thinking needed at the bottom, a jug haul at the top - and then an amazing view to finish it all off at the top. May 7, 2014
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
Fun climb with an amazing view at the top. Well worth the hassle of timing it with the low tide. Mar 16, 2016

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