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Rolling Blackout

5.10c/d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 117 votes
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant '01
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Malibu Creek SP > Century Lake Area > Power Wall
Warning Access Issue: New Access Difficulties DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. DetailsDrop down

Description

Best route on the wall, IMHO. Start on some smaller pockets just right of the large huecos of Power Station. Crux at third bolt as you pull left around a protruding rock. Joins (the better half of) Power Station after that.

Location

Third route from left (on Power Wall), just right of Power Station.

Protection

6 bolts + anchors. Well protected, good bolts, biner and an open shut at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jackie Trejo climbnig Rolling Blackout 5.10c/d on the Power wall.
[Hide Photo] Jackie Trejo climbnig Rolling Blackout 5.10c/d on the Power wall.
clipping the top shared bolts for rolling blackout & power station
[Hide Photo] clipping the top shared bolts for rolling blackout & power station
3rd bolt photo op
[Hide Photo] 3rd bolt photo op
Mel pulling over the bulge, Rolling Blackout (5.10c)
[Hide Photo] Mel pulling over the bulge, Rolling Blackout (5.10c)
Erick getting one last chalk-up before the jug haul post-pump.
[Hide Photo] Erick getting one last chalk-up before the jug haul post-pump.
Katy throwing through the crux on Rolling Blackout (5.10c)
[Hide Photo] Katy throwing through the crux on Rolling Blackout (5.10c)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super fun route. Some hidden holds make the crux at the 3rd bolt pretty easy. FYI, the 3rd bold is loose and the second to last bolt prior to the anchors is in a hollow sounding piece of rock. Be careful. If anyone has the motivation, it would be a good idea to replace these two bolts. Apr 13, 2013
[Hide Comment] Added a large X next on a jug toward the top (down and left of the last bolt) that felt like it was going to rip off. It felt very loose and will likely come off soon. Not a huge concern for the belayer, since the route is so steep ... but it would be quite a surprise (and big fall) for a leader climbing at or near their limit, please use caution! Jul 15, 2015
WaLuigi Munchione
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Kind of a cool route. For a warmup, I think little cheops is a better spot with a 5.9 and two 10b routes. For climbers at this grade, it's a worthwhile, and rarely crowded, fun line with jugs and stemming that you should probably try. Loose rock with X is still there and it's a temptation to put a hand or foot on it. Maybe trundle it? Oct 13, 2015
Sam Cieply
Venice, CA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Two years later and it doesn't seem too loose to me. Fun route with nice holds where you need them. Nov 22, 2017
John Long
Venice
[Hide Comment] Best route on the wall. Must have done it 100 times. Dec 13, 2017
Jeffery Ma
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Amazingly fun route. This was a hard onsite but people seem to find the TR a little easier. It starts of not too bad up to the first 3 bolts but after that is just pumpy. I had a find time on this but definitely needed a break after.

This is an open hook bolt at one of the points for your anchors, just more of an FYI. Sep 10, 2018
Alex C
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. Nice to see the old anchors were replaced with some new hardware. Jul 23, 2024