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Routes in The Power Wall

Electric Eye S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Puff Girls S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Grid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Outage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Station S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rolling Blackout S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant '01
Page Views: 5,424 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 30, 2007 with updates from Jim H
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Best route on the wall, IMHO. Start on some smaller pockets just right of the large huecos of Power Station. Crux at third bolt as you pull left around a protruding rock. Joins (the better half of) Power Station after that.

Location

Third route from left (on Power Wall), just right of Power Station.

Protection

6 bolts + anchors. Well protected, good bolts, biner and an open shut at the top.

Photos

Super fun route. Some hidden holds make the crux at the 3rd bolt pretty easy. FYI, the 3rd bold is loose and the second to last bolt prior to the anchors is in a hollow sounding piece of rock. Be careful. If anyone has the motivation, it would be a good idea to replace these two bolts. Apr 13, 2013
Added a large X next on a jug toward the top (down and left of the last bolt) that felt like it was going to rip off. It felt very loose and will likely come off soon. Not a huge concern for the belayer, since the route is so steep ... but it would be quite a surprise (and big fall) for a leader climbing at or near their limit, please use caution! Jul 15, 2015
Disaster Franklin
Los Angeles, CA
 
Disaster Franklin   Los Angeles, CA
 
Kind of a cool route. For a warmup, I think little cheops is a better spot with a 5.9 and two 10b routes. For climbers at this grade, it's a worthwhile, and rarely crowded, fun line with jugs and stemming that you should probably try. Loose rock with X is still there and it's a temptation to put a hand or foot on it. Maybe trundle it? Oct 13, 2015
Sam Cieply
Venice, CA
  5.10c
Sam Cieply   Venice, CA
  5.10c
Two years later and it doesn't seem too loose to me. Fun route with nice holds where you need them. Nov 22, 2017
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Best route on the wall. Must have done it 100 times. Dec 13, 2017
Jeffery Ma
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffery Ma   Los Angeles, CA
Amazingly fun route. This was a hard onsite but people seem to find the TR a little easier. It starts of not too bad up to the first 3 bolts but after that is just pumpy. I had a find time on this but definitely needed a break after.

This is an open hook bolt at one of the points for your anchors, just more of an FYI. Sep 10, 2018

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