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Routes in Whipper Wall

Bad Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Bomb S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Frankenslime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ride the Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toxic Narcotic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
UnGoverenable Force S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Virus, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You're Nicked, Who's Next? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jul 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route dictated where the bolts went, not all of the rock sounded good when hit with a hammer, so you might not like where the bolts are. However I personally find them very usable. The start might have some green slime around it. Start in a steep left facing corner, climb up passing 1 bolt to a mantle. From here find that sweet jug, lean out and clip the bolt. The holds are hard to find and use but they are there. There was a fixed chain draw on bolt 3 to help with the hard clip. After clipping the 3rd there are a few ways to do it, straight up (which is hardest) or going out left and coming back in the "line" (exciting!). The route feels a lot longer than 4 bolts!
I personally wouldn't let any green horns belay me on this, attention is a must.

Location

Start on the far right side of the Whipper Wall on the west side. A short scramble will put you at the base. Its the large roof on the far right side of the west face.

Protection

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Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.11b
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.11b
I almost blew the onsight on this route. The beta for the crux is a cyptic and committing. Clipping the 4th bolt can be exciting if you aren't tall. This route is harder read than it's neighbor, but it isn't as sustained so I would call it a tougher .11b

READER BEWARE BETA SPOILER: I used a bomber toe hook to clip the 4th. Requires good body tension, but it's bomber. That made all the difference and because of it I'll give it two stars. Jul 17, 2014
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
Solid .11c, but not very fun. Aug 5, 2012