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Routes in Red Devil

Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hell in a Bucket S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Paradise Lost S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, August 2006
Page Views: 3,083 total, 25/month
Shared By: kyle lefkoff on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock.

Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided.

Location

Paradise Lost is located above the first switchback on the climbers trail that jogs north just before reaching the Mallory Cave. Use the NCAR parking lot and Mesa Trail access to the Mallory Cave trail for the 45 minute approach.

Protection

9 bolts to a two bolt ring anchor. Bring a long sling for the third clip. This climb is rigged for a 60 meter rope.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
The 3rd bolt was tightened up yesterday and is now bomber. Oct 23, 2017
Joe Castellano
Boulder
 
Joe Castellano   Boulder
 
Good call Julian on the 3rd bolt. It might hold, but it is better not to fall on it. Jul 15, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
The third bolt is still as bad as ever. Feb 17, 2017
JulianG  
I just did this route today, and it is a fun route.

I have to warn people that the 3rd bolt is bad. The scary part is that you can easily jiggle the bolt in the hole. I did not try to pull it out, but to me it looks like the bolt has been pulled a little out of the rock. A fall before clipping the 4th bolt will be a groundfall. The 4th bolt look good. It is only about 5 or 6 ft higher and easy to clip.

Other than that, enjoy the route ;-) Jun 7, 2015
I too noticed that one of the anchor bolts felt a bit loose. Oct 2, 2012
The anchor bolt with Fixe hanger and ring is loose. Excellent climb, by the way. Jun 15, 2012
Chris Archer
  5.9 R
Chris Archer  
  5.9 R
Fun climbing and great features, but a fall before bolts 2-6 would be grim! Sep 21, 2011
Forestvonsinkafinger
Iowa
  5.9
Forestvonsinkafinger   Iowa
  5.9
A solid 9 with fun moves. This route is a grip of boulder problems hiding in a long sport route. May 19, 2008