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Routes in Main Wall
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Afternoon Delight (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bambi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grand Wall-Z Cracks Route List T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Guide's Wail S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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High Noon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Moonlight (Thumper Direct) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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S.O.S. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slabadellic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slope on a Rope S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thimbleberry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Thumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Uzi-Waza Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Z-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,479 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Jul 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A surprisingly fun 2 pitch crack route on the left side of the main wall. It doesn't look great from the ground, but it climbs very well and the second pitch is excellent.
Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge. Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available. The final crux face move is protected by a bolt. Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).
Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall. Good gear is available everywhere on this section. Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system. Work left to the base of the final crack. Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack. Step left to the chains.
You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.
Rap the route via chains located at the top. The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack. Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m. If in doubt, bring two ropes!
update! Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time. Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground. A 60m rope might not make this ledge....
Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge. Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available. The final crux face move is protected by a bolt. Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).
Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall. Good gear is available everywhere on this section. Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system. Work left to the base of the final crack. Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack. Step left to the chains.
You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.
Rap the route via chains located at the top. The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack. Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m. If in doubt, bring two ropes!
update! Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time. Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground. A 60m rope might not make this ledge....
Two rope rappel gets one to the ground from the hanging belay summit chains. I agree....awkward getting to chains. Why a hanging belay when if placed merely 1m higher it would all have been pleasant? Why the stacked washer/chain combo obsolete station equipping?
Can't beat the approach! Jul 3, 2008
The route originally was done with no bolts and topped out rather than using the anchors to the left.The bolts and chains that now exist were placed for the face route put up just left of the Z-Crack.One bolt on the Z-Crack can easily be avoided and didn't need placing. Some lads from Pocatello unfortunately placed these lame anchors all over the main wall which are now suspect. This is not a criticism of their routes however which by all accounts are first rate.----Cheers,JN Jul 3, 2008
Utah
TDA
p.s. I agree with Jeff Oct 26, 2008
Boise, Idaho
SLC, UT
Driggs, ID