Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
Routes in Main Wall
|Afternoon Delight (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bambi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Double Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grand Wall-Z Cracks Route List T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Guide's Wail S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|High Noon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Moonlight (Thumper Direct) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|S.O.S. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Slabadellic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Slope on a Rope S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Thimbleberry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Thumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Uzi-Waza Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Z-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,463 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Jul 28, 2007|
DescriptionA surprisingly fun 2 pitch crack route on the left side of the main wall. It doesn't look great from the ground, but it climbs very well and the second pitch is excellent.
Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge. Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available. The final crux face move is protected by a bolt. Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).
Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall. Good gear is available everywhere on this section. Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system. Work left to the base of the final crack. Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack. Step left to the chains.
You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.
Rap the route via chains located at the top. The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack. Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m. If in doubt, bring two ropes!
update! Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time. Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground. A 60m rope might not make this ledge....