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Routes in Main Wall

Afternoon Delight (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bambi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grand Wall-Z Cracks Route List T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Guide's Wail S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
High Noon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moonlight (Thumper Direct) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
S.O.S. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabadellic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slope on a Rope S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thimbleberry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Thumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Uzi-Waza Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Z-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,463 total, 12/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A surprisingly fun 2 pitch crack route on the left side of the main wall. It doesn't look great from the ground, but it climbs very well and the second pitch is excellent.

Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge. Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available. The final crux face move is protected by a bolt. Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).

Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall. Good gear is available everywhere on this section. Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system. Work left to the base of the final crack. Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack. Step left to the chains.

You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.

Rap the route via chains located at the top. The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack. Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m. If in doubt, bring two ropes!

update! Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time. Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground. A 60m rope might not make this ledge....

Protection

Two sets of cams from small TCUs to #3 camalot. Nuts including small wires/RPs. Long slings helpful.

Photos

Crob  
Hi, I'm thinking of heading to this crag, potentially with a very old dog that is pretty unstable on his feet. Are there any safe/flat areas for Mr. Geriatric to hang out? Thanks for any input! Oct 22, 2016
Dapper Dan Rogers
Driggs, ID
 
Dapper Dan Rogers   Driggs, ID
 
Bat update, its still there, and just chilling. He will give you some encouragement through the bottom section for sure. Rope drag wasn't heinous for combining pitches (alpine draws), but maybe think twice about placing (right) before the "top of the Z" traverse, that was the culprit for me. Got about 4 feet off the belay deck on a single 70 rap, with solid ledge to off rap, just FYI. Jun 1, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Excellent climb! A single set of cams to 3.5 and nuts is sufficient if you do in 2 pitches. On 8/11/13 there was a screeching bat in the crack at the lower crux on P1 - my partner was freaked! Aug 12, 2013
Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
  5.9+
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
  5.9+
One pitch with long runners worked well for us. 70 meters got us easily to the ledge with a simple downclimb on climber's left, though it did seem like a walk off the top would be the easiest escape. Very wet this spring! Jun 7, 2011
Stevie Nacho   Utah
I led this really fun climb in one pitch with a 60 meter rope. We walked off to the west. This route is really good, yet you should bring a big rack if leading it in one pitch. I ran out of gear and also gas, at the top 20'. Save a yellow metolius for the top. You know when you use it. Ignore the chain belay and walk off. Once again, really good.

TDA

p.s. I agree with Jeff Oct 26, 2008
Hi James---
The route originally was done with no bolts and topped out rather than using the anchors to the left.The bolts and chains that now exist were placed for the face route put up just left of the Z-Crack.One bolt on the Z-Crack can easily be avoided and didn't need placing. Some lads from Pocatello unfortunately placed these lame anchors all over the main wall which are now suspect. This is not a criticism of their routes however which by all accounts are first rate.----Cheers,JN Jul 3, 2008
This is surprisingly good and the same excellent compact Teton rock found in the "main" part of the range. The first pitch provides about as good layback type crack climbing as it can get!
Two rope rappel gets one to the ground from the hanging belay summit chains. I agree....awkward getting to chains. Why a hanging belay when if placed merely 1m higher it would all have been pleasant? Why the stacked washer/chain combo obsolete station equipping?
Can't beat the approach! Jul 3, 2008