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Zadie's Ace

5.9, Trad, 610 ft (185 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Ross, Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter, July 26, 2007. Mean Lady Variation: Ross/Potter, Aug 21, 2007
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > N Crags

Description

Starts at the entrance immediately on the right(north side)of Three Finger Canyon up a Groove/crack system. Some pleasant climbing fairly well protected.There is about 610 'of technical climbing and several hundred feet of 4th class to reach the summit of the formation...

P1) Up the crack to near its top then step right and continue to double anchors. 160' 5.6.
P2)Straight up the easy scoop to double anchors . 100' 5.3
P3)Move belay about a 100' to the right to the center of the steep slab . Climb a short groove then up the steepening slab past 4 bolts to double anchors 150' 5.8+.
P4A) move belay down ledges to left to a water worn scoop .Up this to anchors.100' 5.2.
P4B)"MEAN LADY VARIATION" .Across and just right from the anchors at the top of P3 is a fine looking groove with a thin closed crack . This gives a much better and more direct finish to the climb.The first few moves are the main difficulties . Follow 3 pro bolts and two alien placements to double anchors. 90'5.9. Scramble 4th class right up wide slab ramp for several hundred feet to the ridge.
P5) From here climb easily up to a more difficult short crack just below the summit of the formation.(last pitch of "Layne Potter and The Sorcerers Stone") . 100'5.7.

Descent. Rap/scramble down the route. FA July 26 2007 . Paul Ross . Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter./MEAN LADY VARIATION> FA. P.Ross L.Potter. AUG 21/2007

Location

A groove/crack on the right side(north)of the entrance to Three Fingers canyon

Protection

Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends. Two 60m ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After "Mean Lady"ascent not quite as hot as the Zadie ascent only 101f in the shade.Still warm enough to wear ones Hawaiian shirt,and enjoy a few  liquids on the San Raefael Swell beach.
[Hide Photo] After "Mean Lady"ascent not quite as hot as the Zadie ascent only 101f in the shade.Still warm enough to wear ones Hawaiian shirt,and enjoy a few liquids on the San Raefael Swell beach.
On the way down    really warm temps.
[Hide Photo] On the way down really warm temps.
August on the slabs was hot!
[Hide Photo] August on the slabs was hot!
Rosemary on the summit of Zadie's Ace Formation
[Hide Photo] Rosemary on the summit of Zadie's Ace Formation
P.Ross on FA of "Mean Lady Variation"5.9
[Hide Photo] P.Ross on FA of "Mean Lady Variation"5.9
Zadie's Ace formation .North side of Three Figure Canyon
[Hide Photo] Zadie's Ace formation .North side of Three Figure Canyon
Nothing like a few cold beers to help hydration after climbing for six hours in 103f
[Hide Photo] Nothing like a few cold beers to help hydration after climbing for six hours in 103f
Paul on the 5.8+ 3rd pitch, lugging the lug....
[Hide Photo] Paul on the 5.8+ 3rd pitch, lugging the lug....
Forgot hammer for seating bolts! Layne produced subtitute.... a  truck lug wrench. Not an easy thing to carry and use when seating bolts on the lead.
[Hide Photo] Forgot hammer for seating bolts! Layne produced subtitute.... a truck lug wrench. Not an easy thing to carry and use when seating bolts on the lead.
Rosemary topping out on pitch one
[Hide Photo] Rosemary topping out on pitch one