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Zadie's Ace [Suggest Change]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in N Crags
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Almost There T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Happy Hour. 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hard Labour T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labour of Love T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Mean Lady Variation /Zadie's Ace T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Off the Couch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone II T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tea for Two T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Unemployment Line T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Zadie's Ace T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 610 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter, July 26, 2007. Mean Lady Variation: Ross/Potter, Aug 21, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 989 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | USBRIT Ross on Jul 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Description [Suggest Change]
Starts at the entrance immediately on the right(north side)of Three Finger Canyon up a Groove/crack system. Some pleasant climbing fairly well protected.There is about 610 'of technical climbing and several hundred feet of 4th class to reach the summit of the formation...
P1) Up the crack to near its top then step right and continue to double anchors. 160' 5.6.
P2)Straight up the easy scoop to double anchors . 100' 5.3
P3)Move belay about a 100' to the right to the center of the steep slab . Climb a short groove then up the steepening slab past 4 bolts to double anchors 150' 5.8+.
P4A) move belay down ledges to left to a water worn scoop .Up this to anchors.100' 5.2.
P4B)"MEAN LADY VARIATION" .Across and just right from the anchors at the top of P3 is a fine looking groove with a thin closed crack . This gives a much better and more direct finish to the climb.The first few moves are the main difficulties . Follow 3 pro bolts and two alien placements to double anchors. 90'5.9. Scramble 4th class right up wide slab ramp for several hundred feet to the ridge.
P5) From here climb easily up to a more difficult short crack just below the summit of the formation.(last pitch of "Layne Potter and The Sorcerers Stone") . 100'5.7.
Descent. Rap/scramble down the route. FA July 26 2007 . Paul Ross . Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter./MEAN LADY VARIATION> FA. P.Ross L.Potter. AUG 21/2007
P1) Up the crack to near its top then step right and continue to double anchors. 160' 5.6.
P2)Straight up the easy scoop to double anchors . 100' 5.3
P3)Move belay about a 100' to the right to the center of the steep slab . Climb a short groove then up the steepening slab past 4 bolts to double anchors 150' 5.8+.
P4A) move belay down ledges to left to a water worn scoop .Up this to anchors.100' 5.2.
P4B)"MEAN LADY VARIATION" .Across and just right from the anchors at the top of P3 is a fine looking groove with a thin closed crack . This gives a much better and more direct finish to the climb.The first few moves are the main difficulties . Follow 3 pro bolts and two alien placements to double anchors. 90'5.9. Scramble 4th class right up wide slab ramp for several hundred feet to the ridge.
P5) From here climb easily up to a more difficult short crack just below the summit of the formation.(last pitch of "Layne Potter and The Sorcerers Stone") . 100'5.7.
Descent. Rap/scramble down the route. FA July 26 2007 . Paul Ross . Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter./MEAN LADY VARIATION> FA. P.Ross L.Potter. AUG 21/2007
Location [Suggest Change]
A groove/crack on the right side(north)of the entrance to Three Fingers canyon
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