Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Darren Knezek, Steve Burkholder
Page Views: 950 total · 7/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A steep route with a thin, difficult start, jugs and crimps in the middle, and a thin finish to the right side of a large, obvious flake just below the anchors.

The crux is low; getting to the first bolt is thin and balancy with tenuous crimps and insecure slopers. The second clip is difficult and awkward from a sidepull (my partner muttered imprecations and issued impolite speculation about the (then) unknown bolter while making the clip).

The middle of the route is a brief, welcome respite, and then comes an exciting, overhanging finish past the flake.

The route curves to the left and the shared anchors are above the left side of the flake. This causes the rope to drag across a sharp edge of the flake while lowering; unclip the rope from the last bolt while lowering. Also, the curvature of the route makes cleaning while lowering difficult.


The second-from-left of four bolted routes on the section of the Hidden Wall that is closest to the trail. Shares anchors with the route to the left of the flake (Tales from the Gripped).


9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.


Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Updated description with FA info, correct name, and revised rating, per Darren Knezek. Aug 26, 2007
Really liked the start. The finish was just sort-a there... Jan 1, 2009
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Maybe I did something wrong but I found the first clip fairly grim. You're not going to die or anything but, still, as a 5.10 I was pretty focused and tried a few different stances before making this. I liked the rest of the route. Very cool climbing on excellent textured limestone. A little un-nerving at times with iffy-ish holds. Someday, with enough traffic, could be classic. May 31, 2009
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
I feel I need to comment on high first bolts in general, as the topic comes up quite often. In AF and Rock Canyon, many routes were designed with the intention of stick clipping the first bolt. This keeps the thievery of the first few bolt hangers down. Feel free to count stick clipping the first bolt as a legitimate send on utah county sport routes. Jun 5, 2009
Yes, I have witnessed several times where routes have had the first hanger stolen (Even if glued). Jun 6, 2009
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
Getting to the first and then second bolt is really difficult and extremely bouldery, but fun. Also, don't swing into the tree on the left, and if you are climbing this on TR, leave some draws in or prepare for major swingage. Jul 16, 2009
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
I thought the bottom half was just tiring without any really fun sections, but the last 20ft or so was great. Jun 30, 2010
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
Definitely a hard start, but worth doing. We stick clipped the first bolt and that made a big difference. Had to try a few approaches on the first to get it. Loved the flake at the top. I found that once you clip the bolt just below the big flake (I think it's second down from the chains) sitting there for a rest is just a good way to get tired and make the finish harder. I thought about a rest there, but started feeling a little pumped, so I just made a few quick moves to get to the flake. Will do this again. May 10, 2012
I'll reiterate what Christopher said: this route swings a ton if you top rope and fall around the second bolt, and there is a nice tree that you'll likely swing into. Be careful about top roping and it's probably best to leave a few of the lower clips in. Aug 28, 2015