Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southern Pillar

Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Gebhardt/Bob Duffy
Page Views: 1,828 total, 14/month
Shared By: MichaelE on Jul 25, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Terrific exposure and several steep sections make this an exciting and fairly stout 5.7. Rope drag is ridiculously bad, owing to several horizontal sections--there doesn't seem to be any way around this--and there is a considerable amount of loose rock. Also, we weren't really sure where to go after pitch four, when you reach the top of the main column, so we rapped off of fixed rings found on the side of the formation (which was kind of sketchy).

Location

Begins at the bottom of the prominent and largest fin on the Southern Pillar. It's the closest bit of the formation to Roy Gap Road.

Protection

Full rack. Rings at the top of the first pitch and some slings left around boulders after two and three. Big gear is helpful, but probably not necessary.
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
The best way to descend this is via a new rap line that was installed as part of some new route development inside Great Chimney.

1.) Locate the anchors atop Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem on the east face of the top pillar and rap down to a two-bolt anchor on a big ledge, just north of the large pine tree (top of Window on the West and Back-scratcher). The lower station is just below the 4th pitch of G-D, but off to climber's left a bit.

2.) Rap down into Great Chimney and find a two bolt-anchor just below a large twin-forked tree.

3.) Rap to the base (60m will make it).

Both rap anchors have an extra quick-link or ring on one side in order to create a better aligned directional pull when rapping and pulling the rope. Please don't think there's any hardware missing. Aug 3, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Started on the right side for a harder, 5.8 variation (might actually be Rhododendron Corner). The rest was pretty consistent Seneca 5.7/7+.

We rapped down the west face off the block at the end of the 2nd pitch, which as of 19APR has a strand of webbing and two cords with 3 rap rings. From this rap you'll reach another set of slings with one ring that are decent. Alternatively, move to climbers right from the second rap station along the ledge and locate the two-bolt anchor atop Right Tope. Apr 20, 2015
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
climbed this last fall. some loose rock and lots of popular routes below you, so be careful.
The exposure is terrific. The climbing just ok. The gear is fairly solid. Did not do the last pitch. Feb 15, 2011
Schurman  
 
Reminds me of climbing in the mountains. Fun route - adventurous. Rapoff the east side from the top (1-70 Meter rope will do it) and walk off back to the road - easy.

Some loose rock (though not terrible at all) but great exposure. Aug 5, 2010
Ben Annibali
Palmyra, Pennsylvania
  5.8- PG13
Ben Annibali   Palmyra, Pennsylvania
  5.8- PG13
When i got to the top it was covered in lichen and there were no bolts. My partner and i did a sketchy scramble up to a tree where we found some webbing around a tree. As we rappelled we ran into the worst bush you have ever seen while on rappel. Finally we reached the top of Climbin punishment where we could rap off of bolts. Over all the climb was great, i thought that the gear was kinda far apart on the last two pitches, but it is super exposed and fun. I call it a once and done climb. Jul 6, 2010