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Girls on Film
5.10b/c,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 93
votes
FA: Tyler Phillips
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Albion Basin
> Cecret Lake
> Creekside Wall
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The route starts on sandstone and can be climbed with two different starts: The left (easier) provides a flake for liebacking while the right (harder) has large edges but quickly moves into a shallow undercling to pull the roof. Continue up quartzite edges and horns until you reach a large left-facing horn that provides options for both handjams and holds behind it. Pull up over the roof and cruise to the finish.
Location
Light sandstone and Fixe glue-ins to the right of a flake identify the start of this route.
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Sandy, UT
salt lake city, UT
Big Sky, MT
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This climb is exciting because it can be climbed via two different starts - the left side utilizing fins and lay-backs to thin moves below the roof, which certainly pushes it to 5.10c or harder, or the right side face start which to me seems softer but is still heady on lead. The most important part is both starts are super fun, but the moves through the crux are the real gem. Use a long draw on the first bolt for zero rope drag.
The quartzite starts off appearing much more like sandstone at the bottom, forming gritty holes and shelves, but quickly forms into flakes and horns after the second bolt.
Now is where the fun really begins!
Utilize horns and corners, then the large horizontal crack to get a foot up at the crux! Exhilarating movement as you overcome the exposure above the creek and reach for the jugs! The intensity lessens substantially at this point, but is still worth topping out for the view alone.
Sometimes the top gets a layer of lichen on the holds, but it really doesn't matter as the holds are large and the angle is less aggressive. Go for it! Don't let a little plant matter...matter. Aug 2, 2017
Orem, UT