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The Shard

5.9, Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
FA: Tom Ogden 5/01
California > Northwest Calif… > Trinity Arêtes > Tower of Babble

Description

The Shard ascends the spire-like formation on the right edge of the Tower of Babble. This climb begins in the gully below the Shooting Gallery and to the left of the Visions Wall. Scramble up the gully for 40 feet and the belayer can tie off to a fixed line. Step up out of the gully and clip the first bolt. The route generally ascends the right arete until the sixth bolt. At this point you can continue to the top of the Shard using gear in the cracks to the left of the arete. Stay on the arete to avoid loose rock. For a sport version of this route, step right after clipping the fifth or sixth bolt and traverse to the belay ledge at the start of Bambi Slayer.

Location

Right edge of the Tower of Babble.

Protection

Trad version: 6 bolts and a few pieces to 2". Sport version 6 draws and a couple slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route starts to the left in the large crack. Then transition right after a few bolts. After the sixth bolt, you have to place gear.
[Hide Photo] Route starts to the left in the large crack. Then transition right after a few bolts. After the sixth bolt, you have to place gear.
Spot for the belayer to tie in to. Saves for a fall into the gully.
[Hide Photo] Spot for the belayer to tie in to. Saves for a fall into the gully.
Gully with rope to get up to the base of the route.
[Hide Photo] Gully with rope to get up to the base of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RVita Vi
 
[Hide Comment] Fun arete route to start. We climbed the first few bolts up the far right crack using a lot of stemming. From there, you transfer over to the arete on the right and climb up the remaining bolts. To get to the anchor we placed a #.3 and a #2. Up where you place the gear is where the rock is very unstable in spots. Be careful not to knock something down toward your belayer.

For a belay spot, you have to climb up the steep gully to the base of the climb. To the right there is a rope set up that we tied into so the belayer didn't have to worry about slipping down the muddy gully.

Overall, very fun route. Just be careful of the lose rock up top. Apr 16, 2015
Leland Howard
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] For the sport variation, the clearest line is to step around the arete at the 4th bolt, step up, reach around and clip + extend the 5th bolt, and then traverse out. Jul 19, 2020