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Routes in Tower of Babble

Babble-On S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shard, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speaking In Tongues S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Twister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tom Ogden 5/01
Page Views: 134 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Shard ascends the spire-like formation on the right edge of the Tower of Babble. This climb begins in the gully below the Shooting Gallery and to the left of the Visions Wall. Scramble up the gully for 40 feet and the belayer can tie off to a fixed line. Step up out of the gully and clip the first bolt. The route generally ascends the right arete until the sixth bolt. At this point you can continue to the top of the Shard using gear in the cracks to the left of the arete. Stay on the arete to avoid loose rock. For a sport version of this route, step right after clipping the fifth or sixth bolt and traverse to the belay ledge at the start of Bambi Slayer.

Location

Right edge of the Tower of Babble.

Protection

Trad version: 6 bolts and a few pieces to 2". Sport version 6 draws and a couple slings.

Photos

RVita Vi  
 
Fun arete route to start. We climbed the first few bolts up the far right crack using a lot of stemming. From there, you transfer over to the arete on the right and climb up the remaining bolts. To get to the anchor we placed a #.3 and a #2. Up where you place the gear is where the rock is very unstable in spots. Be careful not to knock something down toward your belayer.

For a belay spot, you have to climb up the steep gully to the base of the climb. To the right there is a rope set up that we tied into so the belayer didn't have to worry about slipping down the muddy gully.

Overall, very fun route. Just be careful of the lose rock up top. Apr 16, 2015