Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Sunrise Book

5.12-, Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.7 from 30 votes
FA: FA: Gordon Webster, Steve Roper and Tom Naylor, 1969 at 5.8 A3 FFA: Jeff Gruenberg, Jack Mileski, 1986
Idaho > Central Idaho > Sawtooth Range > Elephant's Perch
Access Issue: Please use WAG bags for human waste and pack it out! See request from the Wilderness Ranger in the Sawtooths. Details

Description

Corner system above the descent gully.

Can be done as 5.10a A1 by aiding through the crux.

photo trip report by Brad Brandewie

Location

right side of South face, starts from partway up the descent gully. Lower class 5 to climb around the chockstone in the gully.

Protection

standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at P2 of Sunrise Book.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at P2 of Sunrise Book.
Looking up at the summit overhangs and the bombay chimney.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the summit overhangs and the bombay chimney.
Elephant's Perch - South Face<br>
<br>
8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+ <br>
7. The Seagull 5.10 A3 <br>
6. King's Highway 5.9 A3 <br>
5. Myopia 5.11a *** <br>
4. Divine Guidance 5.11- * <br>
3a. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3 <br>
3. Elephant's Eye 5.10+ A3 <br>
2. Astro Elephant 5.10a ** <br>
2.A. Sideline Variation 5.9 <br>
1. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 ** <br>
[Hide Photo] Elephant's Perch - South Face 8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+ 7. The Seagull 5.10 A3 6. King's Highway 5.9 A3 5. Myopia 5.11a *** 4. Divine Guidance 5.11- * 3a. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3…
Pitch 1. Avoid trending too far left into the obvious dihedral. By the amount of chalk and bail webbing, it seems we weren't the only ones to make this mistake.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1. Avoid trending too far left into the obvious dihedral. By the amount of chalk and bail webbing, it seems we weren't the only ones to make this mistake.
Paul Kejla nearing the top of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Paul Kejla nearing the top of the first pitch.
topo by Reid Dowdle
[Hide Photo] topo by Reid Dowdle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rpc
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!). Mar 21, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] I thought the topo was right on. P3 is 9+ if you are used to that style of climbing (handcrack in the back of a flare). We linked the last two pitches together. The bombay chimney is so much fun! Aug 5, 2008
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] My boyfriend and I both tried to free this one and neither of us got it. We hiked up canyon and started on the 5.9 pitch that puts you underneath the 11+ that goes into the 12-. The 11+ pitch was very serious with long runouts over marginal gear. I backed off it but my boyfriend got it on his second try. We both traded off on the 12- which has tons of fixed nuts so it's more like a sport climb with a really hard boulder problem at the top. Gorgeous line though. Aug 19, 2010
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
[Hide Comment] There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there! Aug 29, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] 5.10 A1 for weaklings like me. Not to be missed though. The free sections (most of route) are great. Jul 2, 2011
A Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] By far some of the most beautiful rock on this wall. What a great line. The 9+ topout pitch is outstanding!!!!! What a surprise finish.

Link the crux pitch with the perfect hands corner pitch above for a super 190 foot cruiser. You do the hard moves low down and then enjoy the 100 feet of perfect hands in a corner. No real rope drag on this plumb-line pitch.

Dont know that I would link the last two pitches, potential for rope drag through the chimney is daunting. Plus, the belay inside the bottom of the chimney is shady with a nice stance.

The 5.12 crux is doable though I fell at the last move before it backs off in difficulty. I think I could have stuck it if I had just tried a little harder. Oh well. Jun 21, 2013
Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Stellar climbing on clean rock. Excellent option if you want a shorter day at the Perch.

Agree with Aaron's suggestion on linking P2 & P3 - this worked well for us.

Gear - we took doubles up to #3 camalot, with triples in the blue-red alien sized cams. I'd use the same rack if climbing this again - it allowed us to link P2 & P3 comfortably.

P1 - Climbs nicer than it looks; delicate face moves with decent gear.
P2 - If you link P2 & P3, I'd suggest a couple large stoppers for the initial pro, on long slings (starts out as 5.8). 5.12 Crux protects well with small stoppers and small cams. You will then ideally have hand sized cams left for P3.
P3 - Great 5.10 crack climbing! If you like Indian Creek, you will enjoy this section.
P4 - More great 5.10 crack climbing! Relatively short pitch but steep and strenuous. Again, agree with Aaron - I wouldn't link P4 and P5, as you might not have the required gear left over, and can face some potential heinous rope drag. Besides, the chimney belay is comfy and protected from the wind.
P5 - So much fun!!! Red and green camalots protect the moves out of the chimney well. We back-cleaned some gear for fear of it walking back into the crack with the rope pushing on it.

Enjoy this beauty. If you are a solid 5.10 crack climber and don't mind a bit of aiding on the 5.12 section - I'd suggest getting on this! Sep 3, 2015
CThornton
Boise
 
[Hide Comment] As of October 2015, many of the fixed nuts on the 2nd pitch were missing. It's been a while, but I recall there being only 1 at the very top and another at the bottom of the 5.12/aid section. What a classic route though! Oct 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] Here's what I know. Original ascent by Gordon Webster, Steve Roper and Tom Naylor in 1969 at 5.8 A3. I rope soloed it (mostly on aid) around 79 or so to scope out the free potential. In 81 or 82 Jeff Niwa and myself went up to check it out on what was supposed to be a rest day. We did a variation partway up the first pitch and then continued on up. We ended up doing 3 or 4 aid moves on what is now the 5.12 part. We climbed the next 3 pitches with no problems except for the excitement on the final horizontal chimney pitch.
A year or so later Jeff Gruenberg and Jack Milesky free-climbed this one hard section and I believe free-climbed the original first pitch too..
Most climbers do this as a 5.10 A1 climb with the aid part being anywhere from 15 to 30 ft. depending on how hard you want to push it. The 5.12 part is steep and easily aided.
The first half of Astro makes a great approach to this to add more climbing and to avoid the gully. Nov 22, 2017
[Hide Comment] Super quality and great option for a short day before or after the boat ride. 100 degree in Twin Falls - semi early start and enjoyed perfectly comfortable climbing. P1 5.fun. Link 2&3 and make sure you’ve got hand pieces for the long stretch and belay. P2 has one fixed nut in just the right spot. Clip it, shake out and charge. Crux is short and very doable for the wannabe easy 12 climber (way easier than Fine Line or Beckey Direct). Link 4&5 it’s straight up and then out the roof so drag is a non issue. The finishing roof is just an amazing bit of climbing and not to be missed. Took our shoes off at 10:15, boat was waiting at the dock and were at the car at 1:15. Rack I’d do trips on .75,1,2. If you’re not locker on thin hands you could easily place more. Single 3 then double .3 and .4 and some nuts. Not sure stone gets any better than this. Aug 12, 2018
Michael McNutt
Boise, Idaho
[Hide Comment] This can be done as a link up from Astro elephant. Take the first three pitches up Astro elephant, traverse right on the ledge to the base of the book. Roof is wild and difficullt with too much bulk on your harness. Aug 20, 2019
Shino
nomadic
[Hide Comment] Climbs way better than it looks - an apt way to describe the left .9 first pitch. Unexpectedly delightful. Route goes into the shade ~ 3 for those wanting to time the linkup better than we did. Thanks to everyone for not spoiling the last pitch with pictures. Some things are meant to be discovered on your own. Wild, varied, beautiful line. Jul 15, 2020