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Wendy

5.10+, Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Idaho > Central Idaho > Sawtooth Range > Elephant's Perch
Access Issue: Please use WAG bags for human waste and pack it out! See request from the Wilderness Ranger in the Sawtooths. Details

Description

A long independent route up the typical small corners with 2 hard pitches. The first pitch is often wet and the second pitch has a fragile flake.

Location

right of the Mountaineer's Route

Protection

standard rack with small wired nuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Left<br>
 <br>
20. Chasing the Dragon 5.11+ A0 <br>
19. Mountaineer's Route 5.8 - 5.9 <br>
18. Trunkline 5.10+ <br>
17. Wendy 5.10+ <br>
16. Route X 5.9 A2 <br>
15a. Boomer's Story Var. 5.9 A2 <br>
15. Boomer's Story 5.9 A2 <br>
14. The Thorn Bush 5.9 A3 <br>
13. Slipstream 5.10 A3 <br>
12. Hook & Ladder 5.9 A3 <br>
11. Direct Beckey 5.11a ** <br>
10. Original Beckey 5.11+, stemming pitch from Fine Line to Direct Beckey <br>
9. The Fine Line 5.11a *** <br>
[Hide Photo] Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Left 20. Chasing the Dragon 5.11+ A0 19. Mountaineer's Route 5.8 - 5.9 18. Trunkline 5.10+ 17. Wendy 5.10+ 16. Route X 5.9 A2 15a. Boomer's Story Var. 5.9…
topo by Reid Dowdle
[Hide Photo] topo by Reid Dowdle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The Wendy, which is rarely done, is an excellent route and deserves way more than 1 star. There are a few factors that have kept this climb off of most climbers radar.
A version of this climb was done in the late 70's by unknown climbers with some aid. Later, in 1982, 2 visiting Gunks climbers Jeff Gruenberg and Gene Smith climbed a route in this area, drew up a topo, called it the Wendy and described it as the FFA of Route X.at 5.11+. It only climbs 1 pitch of Route X.
The first pitch is a little funky with some awkward climbing, a short rotten section,and then a much harder part near the top that is often wet. Hard to tell from the ground if it is wet, the rock is stained black. Usually dry by August. If it is wet it is easy to aid and is a great excuse for not free-climbing one of the cruxes.
The 2nd pitch starts off with a little greenery for 10' or so then reverts back to classic Perch crack climbing for the rest of the route. However, the next issue is looming directly above which is probably the reason this climb is not more popular. A large flake is mysteriously attached to the wall. This bothers most people. I've been on this climb 6-7 times over the years and it always makes me nervous but it has never moved.
After the 4th pitch there are at least 4 different ways to continue. Most parties (the 3 or 4 that I know of) do a right traverse to gain a hidden right facing hand crack that then continues up with more options ahead.
If you can deal with the fear factor on pitch 2 this is a fun route with lots of climbing in the 5.10+ approaching 5.11 range. Like most Perch routes the difficulties ease up as you near the top Nov 22, 2017