PRINT: Rock Climb Surface Tension, Taos Area

Surface Tension

5.11- PG13, Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > S Rock

Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Also, this is a seasonal raptor nesting area. Details

See the USGS topo map mountainproject.com/photo/1… showing the private property boundaries (shaded areas).

The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.

Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

Excellent friction climbing on this one. Bolts close together at the crux make this a good one to try 5.11 slab, but it does take climbing a section of 5.9+ or 5.10 slab with pro far apart to get there. At least it’s shaded.

Pitch 1. Clip the low bolt and make an awkward 5.10 move onto an easy ramp. This section can be avoided by starting farther right, but if you want to avoid this move, you'll probably be better off avoiding the rest of the climb too. A directional piece above this move is a good idea to protect the follower. Follow the easy ramp up and left to a ledge below a vertical crack. Build an anchor here, unless you have reason to do the climb in a single 60m pitch.

Pitch 2. Start up the slab, clip the first piton, work left and up on thin slab to the 2nd pin (5.9+ or 5.10 R) It's rather heady between the pitons but they are bomber. A few more moves gain a diagonal crack, and you get more pro, any cam 1"- 3" works. An intimidating but easy move puts you within reach of the first bolt on the final slab headwall. The well-protected face gets blanker and blanker with the hardest "surface tension" moves getting to the final bolt (crux).

An intermediate belay at the ledge below the pitons and/or the final headwall is recommended to reduce rope drag, although I found it tolerable to climb the whole route in a single 58m pitch.

Location

Start below a single bolt about 10' uphill and left of Yikes Dikes on the west side of the north face of South Rock.

Protection

1 bolt down low, then 2 fixed pins, then 3 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor, with some of your own trad gear in between..

1 60m rope works to descend the North side in a single rap. Find the center.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Howard

FA Doug Bridgers?

"Felt all of 5.10R "SLAB" to Bob D'? Makes my palms sweat and I think I just vomited a little in the back of my throat. Expect a memorable climb. Oct 22, 2007

Paul Davidson

I agree with Bob, I'm real glad I didn't have to lead that slab past that pin. Aug 12, 2008

William Penner
The 505

Great route and thought provoking as Paul and Bob noted. The crux at the last bolt is well protected and you could spit on the summit, but I always fall there just within a few feet of success. That really sucks because you know you have to climb the run-out part again. Aug 12, 2008

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11- PG13

Williampenner wrote:The crux at the last bolt is well protected and you could spit on the summit, but I always fall there just within a few feet of success. That really sucks because you know you have to climb the run-out part again.

Exactly my thoughts! I was psyched to have gotten through the lower run-out section only to come off two moves from the top. I'm still working up the gumption to get back on lead of that pitch again. When I was leading through that run-out "pins" section I specifically remember thinking, "Why the hell did I sign up for this?" I loved it. Aug 12, 2008

David Baltz
Albuquerque, NM

5.11c PG13

The first ascent was actually by Paul Horak, Mark Leonard in Aug 1985. According to Paul Horak's notes, Mark led the runout pitch without the second pin, which was apparently added later--grinning all the way no doubt! Aug 12, 2008

Stuart Ritchie
Aurora, CO

Although the harder sections are short, it's still a true test piece of both your mental fortitude and thin slab technique! This is indeed a surprisingly excellent route! I would also call the pin-protected slab full blown 5.10R! I was able to back the 1st pin up with a yellow Alien and #3 RP, but was concerned that the whole flakey bit might blow out from a fall near the next pin clip, the consequence of which would be quite painful. Sep 26, 2010

Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM

Damn 5.10 slab! Quite a difficult and though provoking section between the pitons. Unfortunately I did fall on the first piton. Fortunately it held. I had nightmares of it not holding. One could back it up with a blue and purple tcu as well. Thunderstorms and lightning cut the climb short. Maybe next time. Aug 29, 2011

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ

5.11- PG13

The above comments made me nervous about leading this climb, but the lower runout parts were fine (and there is good gear for backup, which I used) if you're going to cruise the delicate upper part that's well bolted. It's a really nice climb with good pro where you need it, and I encourage a strong slab climber to go for it and not get scared off by the above. Aug 8, 2012