Type: Trad, Alpine, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Carlos Buhler, Sue Giller, 1974
Page Views: 366 total · 2/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb the left-facing corner or the face just to its right for 50', then stay in the left of two cracks to a belay on loose blocks below a chimney/slot (5.6).

Pitch 2: Climb upward through an easy chimney to a squeeze chimney with a big chockstone. Pass around the chockstone and move to the the top of the flake, or tunnel through behind it if you're tiny. From here, hand traverse 8' left on dubious rock with minimal protection to a gully (5.7+, described this way in Sandia Rock), or face climb straight up from the top of the detached pillar and soon you'll reach some finger cracks (also about 5.7+, better pro, I'd recommend this alternative).

Note that "Sandia Rock" rates this climb as 5.8 rather than the 5.7 found in older guides; considering the less-than-ideal pro at the crux, best to be comfortable at 5.8.

Location

When approaching from the La Luz, this climb starts 15' right of the bolted routes (Body Nazi, and Rastafari), in a left-facing corner.

Protection

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".

Photos