All Locations >
New Mexico
> Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountains
> La Cueva Canyon…
> Hole in the Wall
Occasional Freshman
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Carlos Buhler, Sue Giller, 1974 |
Page Views: | 731 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Jul 18, 2007 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Effective 8am, May 19th, 2022, the Cibola National Forest has issued a stage 3 (full closure) fire restriction order for the Mountainair, Mount Taylor and Sandia ranger districts. The order can be found at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
The order is effective until December 31, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. Before you climb in any of the Albuquerque areas, you are encouraged to verify the land management status of the particular area to ensure it is not within the closure order area. The MountainProject forum thread at mountainproject.com/forum/t… does a good job of detailing what is closed and what is open in the state of New Mexico.
A map of the Cibola ranger districts can be found at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
The order is effective until December 31, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. Before you climb in any of the Albuquerque areas, you are encouraged to verify the land management status of the particular area to ensure it is not within the closure order area. The MountainProject forum thread at mountainproject.com/forum/t… does a good job of detailing what is closed and what is open in the state of New Mexico.
A map of the Cibola ranger districts can be found at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the left-facing corner or the face just to its right for 50', then stay in the left of two cracks to a belay on loose blocks below a chimney/slot (5.6).
Pitch 2: Climb upward through an easy chimney to a squeeze chimney with a big chockstone. Pass around the chockstone and move to the the top of the flake, or tunnel through behind it if you're tiny. From here, hand traverse 8' left on dubious rock with minimal protection to a gully (5.7+, described this way in Sandia Rock), or face climb straight up from the top of the detached pillar and soon you'll reach some finger cracks (also about 5.7+, better pro, I'd recommend this alternative).
Note that "Sandia Rock" rates this climb as 5.8 rather than the 5.7 found in older guides; considering the less-than-ideal pro at the crux, best to be comfortable at 5.8.
Pitch 2: Climb upward through an easy chimney to a squeeze chimney with a big chockstone. Pass around the chockstone and move to the the top of the flake, or tunnel through behind it if you're tiny. From here, hand traverse 8' left on dubious rock with minimal protection to a gully (5.7+, described this way in Sandia Rock), or face climb straight up from the top of the detached pillar and soon you'll reach some finger cracks (also about 5.7+, better pro, I'd recommend this alternative).
Note that "Sandia Rock" rates this climb as 5.8 rather than the 5.7 found in older guides; considering the less-than-ideal pro at the crux, best to be comfortable at 5.8.
3 Comments