Avg: 3.7 from 33 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983|
|Page Views:||4,730 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||andyf on Jul 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.