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Washington
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> Lower Town Wall
> (B) Sonic Slab
Terminal Preppie
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 42
votes
Routes in (B) Sonic Slab
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Nick O' Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pretty Vacant S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sonic Reducer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strength Through Bowling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Terminal Preppie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walkin The Dog T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983 |
| Page Views: | 5,441 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | andyf on Jul 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.
Location
Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.
Protection
5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.
7 Comments