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Routes in Dream Tower

East Coast Dreams S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hail Dancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Baker & Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 478 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 16, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a slab for about 15-20 ft to a bolt. Could probably get protection before this if desired. Head past the bolt over a steep bulge for the crux moves. Head up on easier ground, to the final steep moves at the anchors. Protection is good but not everywhere.

Location

See Dream Tower introduction for approach information. Hail Dancer is the far left route, a bolt about 20 feet up marks the start. This route is about 30 yards upstream of The Sponge.

Protection

Light rack up to #2 camalot. Could take a #3 camalot for the very top if you think you might want it. Some small cams are nice as well.

Photos

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Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
Although it looks ok from the ground, when you're face-to-face with it, the lower-off anchor needs some love.
Maybe the next team that cares can bring up some more quicklinks, and/or very short sections of real chain, and some washers (or real hangers), and a wrench, and a Good Samaritan badge, to try to equalize the mank. May 21, 2012

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