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Routes in Dream Tower

East Coast Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hail Dancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Baker & Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 469 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 16, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Climb a slab for about 15-20 ft to a bolt. Could probably get protection before this if desired. Head past the bolt over a steep bulge for the crux moves. Head up on easier ground, to the final steep moves at the anchors. Protection is good but not everywhere.

Location [Edit]

See Dream Tower introduction for approach information. Hail Dancer is the far left route, a bolt about 20 feet up marks the start. This route is about 30 yards upstream of The Sponge.

Protection [Edit]

Light rack up to #2 camalot. Could take a #3 camalot for the very top if you think you might want it. Some small cams are nice as well.

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Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
Although it looks ok from the ground, when you're face-to-face with it, the lower-off anchor needs some love.
Maybe the next team that cares can bring up some more quicklinks, and/or very short sections of real chain, and some washers (or real hangers), and a wrench, and a Good Samaritan badge, to try to equalize the mank. May 21, 2012

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