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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Another Pair of New Shoes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birth of the Cool T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Nazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr Jeckle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of My Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Insane Clown Posse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Miss Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouth of a Sailor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Hyde T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Occasional Freshman T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paydirt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastafari T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sailor Slang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Prom S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sister Sledge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sophmoric Sandbag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strike It Rich T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Little Birds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Hill, Norm Wendell, 1980
Page Views: 3,315 total, 26/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 15, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

1st Pitch; 100 ft
Start up the wide crack to the top of the flake, can use a #3 Camalot here but not necessary. Continue up the steep thin crack (crux) to a right facing dihedral. From here angle right on easier ground to the anchor for the bolted routes or continue up another dihedral to belay at the large tree.

2nd pitch; 120 feet
From the belay follow the crack past a fixed piton. The Sandia Classics guide mentions the start is difficult to protect, but I didn't find it any worse than other Sandia climbs at the grade. Continue up the crack for a ways until the crack gives way to block terrain. Angle slightly right on better than it looks rock to a slight notch. Top out and belay off the tree.

Location

Continue past the La Luz mine passing Insane Clown Posse and Sister Sledge, 10 ft left of Sister Sledge is the starting flake of Miss Piggy.

Protection

Standard Sandias rack up to #2 camalot. Can place a #3 at the start if desired. Could probably fit it on the second pitch as well if needed.
Rennie Putnam
Davis, CA
Rennie Putnam   Davis, CA
I wouldn't recommend rapping off the top pitch, unless you have enough gear to extend the rappel 25-30 feet to the edge of the cliff. Best option is to stash packs near the La Luz trail at the first switchback and walk down to the base of the crag. Then you can walk off the top and grab gear on the way out. Sep 28, 2017
Rika J.
Albuquerque, NM
Rika J.   Albuquerque, NM
The wide crack at the bottom of the first pitch didn't take a #3, I think you'd need a 3.5 or a 4. The rope drag on both pitches is pretty bad, so extend as much of your pro as you feel comfortable with. Also, I thought this climb protected super well, but newer 5.8 leaders will want doubles of 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75. Great route! Jul 29, 2017
Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM
 
Nathan Kofahl   Albuquerque, NM
 
3d Photo taken at the top of Miss Piggy on 5/30/16
goo.gl/maps/fpx91WE9DXH2

Awesome views. Jun 10, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Great route we climbed Miss Piggy and Estrolita to get a feel of 5.8's in the Sandias prior to doing the Southwest Ridge. We felt Piggy and Estrolita were rated spot on. Good climb really enjoyed it.

Sep 9, 2014
HowardofNM  
 
Climbed on 9/30/12. Partner couldn't get out #3 stoppper from 2nd pitch. If you can get it and want to return it that would be nice. Drop it off at SACG for Howard B or Maggie. Sep 30, 2012
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.8
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I enjoyed both pitches. The second pitch has more climbing between 5.6-5.8 and is surprisingly steep at the top. With an easy walk-up/walk-off, this climb is well worth the trip. May 1, 2011
Tuesday, Aug 18th, 4:30 PM, RB and I meet at the Marriot (LA and I40),
drive up to the top, zip down and do Miss Piggy.

Neither of us had done the climb in probably over 15 years.
Ron tops out just as the sun sets.
If we'd paid a bit more attention on starting the second pitch correctly (left of the tree, not right) we'd have had a bit more of a time window.

What a fun route. The first pitch layback is just classic Sandia 5.8 layback over a bulge (Happy Gnome, etc...)

We both thought the 2nd pitch was all quite good, well protected, bit interesting to get started then nice pro, jams, etc... to the top.

We'd both remembered it being kinda typical Sandia hash but the rock quality was really pretty darn good.

Looks like the Estrellita to Piggy link up would make for one fun outing.

Has anyone done her in one 70M pitch ?
Rope drag reasonable if you bring enough long runners ? Aug 20, 2009
Ryan Smyth
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Ryan Smyth   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
The first pitch of this climb is great. Some nice liebacking in the start. The second pitch isn't quite as great as the first one. I'd recommend bypassing the bolts and belaying from the tree. Unless you just want to do the first pitch and rap to the start. Apr 30, 2008