Type: Trad, Alpine, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Hill, Norm Wendell, 1980
Page Views: 3,918 total · 27/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 15, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

1st Pitch; 100 ft
Start up the wide crack to the top of the flake, can use a #3 Camalot here but not necessary. Continue up the steep thin crack (crux) to a right facing dihedral. From here angle right on easier ground to the anchor for the bolted routes or continue up another dihedral to belay at the large tree.

2nd pitch; 120 feet
From the belay follow the crack past a fixed piton. The Sandia Classics guide mentions the start is difficult to protect, but I didn't find it any worse than other Sandia climbs at the grade. Continue up the crack for a ways until the crack gives way to block terrain. Angle slightly right on better than it looks rock to a slight notch. Top out and belay off the tree.

Location

Continue past the La Luz mine passing Insane Clown Posse and Sister Sledge, 10 ft left of Sister Sledge is the starting flake of Miss Piggy.

Protection

Standard Sandias rack up to #2 camalot. Can place a #3 at the start if desired. Could probably fit it on the second pitch as well if needed.
Ryan Smyth
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Ryan Smyth   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
The first pitch of this climb is great. Some nice liebacking in the start. The second pitch isn't quite as great as the first one. I'd recommend bypassing the bolts and belaying from the tree. Unless you just want to do the first pitch and rap to the start. Apr 30, 2008
Tuesday, Aug 18th, 4:30 PM, RB and I meet at the Marriot (LA and I40),
drive up to the top, zip down and do Miss Piggy.

Neither of us had done the climb in probably over 15 years.
Ron tops out just as the sun sets.
If we'd paid a bit more attention on starting the second pitch correctly (left of the tree, not right) we'd have had a bit more of a time window.

What a fun route. The first pitch layback is just classic Sandia 5.8 layback over a bulge (Happy Gnome, etc...)

We both thought the 2nd pitch was all quite good, well protected, bit interesting to get started then nice pro, jams, etc... to the top.

We'd both remembered it being kinda typical Sandia hash but the rock quality was really pretty darn good.

Looks like the Estrellita to Piggy link up would make for one fun outing.

Has anyone done her in one 70M pitch ?
Rope drag reasonable if you bring enough long runners ? Aug 20, 2009
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.8
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I enjoyed both pitches. The second pitch has more climbing between 5.6-5.8 and is surprisingly steep at the top. With an easy walk-up/walk-off, this climb is well worth the trip. May 1, 2011
HowardofNM  
 
Climbed on 9/30/12. Partner couldn't get out #3 stoppper from 2nd pitch. If you can get it and want to return it that would be nice. Drop it off at SACG for Howard B or Maggie. Sep 30, 2012
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Great route we climbed Miss Piggy and Estrolita to get a feel of 5.8's in the Sandias prior to doing the Southwest Ridge. We felt Piggy and Estrolita were rated spot on. Good climb really enjoyed it.

Sep 9, 2014
Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM
 
Nathan Kofahl   Albuquerque, NM
 
3d Photo taken at the top of Miss Piggy on 5/30/16
goo.gl/maps/fpx91WE9DXH2

Awesome views. Jun 10, 2016
Rika J.
Colorado
Rika J.   Colorado
The wide crack at the bottom of the first pitch didn't take a #3, I think you'd need a 3.5 or a 4. The rope drag on both pitches is pretty bad, so extend as much of your pro as you feel comfortable with. Also, I thought this climb protected super well, but newer 5.8 leaders will want doubles of 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75. Great route! Jul 29, 2017
Rennie Putnam
Albuquerque, NM
Rennie Putnam   Albuquerque, NM
I wouldn't recommend rapping off the top pitch, unless you have enough gear to extend the rappel 25-30 feet to the edge of the cliff. Best option is to stash packs near the La Luz trail at the first switchback and walk down to the base of the crag. Then you can walk off the top and grab gear on the way out. Sep 28, 2017
Bodie Manly
Albuquerque, NM
Bodie Manly   Albuquerque, NM
The layback on p1 is great, but seemed to be the p1 cruz and can be a little spicy depending on how you protect it. A fall can lead to a partial deck on the ledge below the layback. I had to leave a brass nut high on the layback that my shorter partner couldn't find a good cleaning stance to collect. Midway through p1 is a large ledge that is *not* the belay ledge. Step out and up to the ledge's right towards the sport routes, past the chain anchors, and up one more section to the large tree, which is equipped with a piece of webbing. Incidentally, it was getting dark so we had to rap down from p1, leaving a blue sewn runner and a bd locker. Our 60m rope barely made it on a plumb line to the bottom with the stretch. Much obliged if you happen to collect this lost gear and PM me! Oct 7, 2018