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Unnatural Attraction

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 24 votes
FA: Jay Foley, circa 1993
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Beastie Alley
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

Oscillate wildly between bolts, following the holds to the top. Up and left to the anchors.

Location

The first bolted line on the south side of Beastie Alley. Rappel (or lower) from shared anchors with Pony Express (5.9).

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Additional gear placements can be found, but are probably not necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun stemming on Unnatural Attraction
[Hide Photo] Fun stemming on Unnatural Attraction
Micah on Unnatural Attraction
[Hide Photo] Micah on Unnatural Attraction
Very comfortable belay for Unnatural Attraction
[Hide Photo] Very comfortable belay for Unnatural Attraction
Mark "The Poser" Schraad on Unnatural Attraction (5.10b).
[Hide Photo] Mark "The Poser" Schraad on Unnatural Attraction (5.10b).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] You can stay left of the bolts and not stem at the beginning of this route, which makes it supposedly 5.11. Jul 18, 2007
Mark Mathis
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I've incremented the bolt count to 5 in the description. Jul 22, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] While not necessary, a cam or two up high seems like it would be appreciated. Jun 7, 2008
[Hide Comment] Correct George. I climbed the FA of this route without steming, climbing directissima staying left of the bolts circa 1993. I thought the bouldery start to this variation was about 11c. I was searching for harder steeper shaded routes in TP at the time. The second time I led it I realized you could stem and zig zag between bolts at about 5.10a and felt a bit silly for not seeing it the first time. Funny how we only see what we are looking for sometimes. Feb 8, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
[Hide Comment] I was initially confused by this location description. I guess it's the first bolted line you find on the right side of the Alley when you're walking in (not on the outside of the alley, by PE). It has a partially installed anchor at the 5th bolt at about 40-45 feet (there's an empty, open hole that was drilled 8 inches to the right of B5, and has a sleeve inside but no bolt; the 5th bolt itself currently has a brown-painted screwgate on it). ~10a/b -- w/o stemming. It has a lame runout scramble to the left at the top to get to the PE anchor. Jul 11, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] You were on the correct climb, Chris. This is the 1st bolted climb on the right side after you enter the Alley.

I'd recommend continuing to the anchor shared with Pony Express, rather than lower off of a single bolt [which, as of 7/19, no longer has a quick-link or leaver biner]. This finish is run out, but easy, or bring a couple pieces of gear. Jul 11, 2009
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Interesting stemming at the start. I is probably a good idea to place some pro at the end for your second, since the anchor is a bit far to the left. Sep 17, 2012
Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
[Hide Comment] For those of you who would like to take gear before the run to the anchors, a 1 inch alien fit like a glove to protect the moves into the slot. Could likely get in a yellow as well or instead of, but otherwise that is roughly the size you need. Just FYI so you don't have to carry up multiple pieces. Nov 14, 2016