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Chicken Heads

5.7, Trad, 200 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 42 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Mosaic Rock
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Start at the base of a right trending diagonal crack on a ledge 40 feet up the center of the wall. Follow the crack up and right, heading left and up where the crack turns left just before it ends.

Location

Obtain the start ledge by climbing Chicken Shit (5.7). Walk off to the East (right).

Protection

Standard trad rack (set of nuts and set of cams w/ extra slings). Belay from gear at the summit (large cams useful). 60m rope necessary to reach the summit from the ground in one pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sarah enjoys Chicken Heads. June 2010.
[Hide Photo] Sarah enjoys Chicken Heads. June 2010.
After topping out Chicken Heads, take a second to enjoy the view, then walk off the East side of the formation.
[Hide Photo] After topping out Chicken Heads, take a second to enjoy the view, then walk off the East side of the formation.
From the top of Chicken Shit, follow the right trending crack up the wall.  Top out on easy slab and walk all the way up to find a good crack system to build an anchor.
[Hide Photo] From the top of Chicken Shit, follow the right trending crack up the wall. Top out on easy slab and walk all the way up to find a good crack system to build an anchor.
It's obvious why the route is called "Chicken Heads".
[Hide Photo] It's obvious why the route is called "Chicken Heads".
Mosaic Rock (center) from the top of South Rock.  Chicken Shit (5.7) ascends the green streak between the two trees to the start of Chicken Heads (5.7). The crack on the far right is Serpentine Crack (5.8).  Dirty Diagonal (5.7) is the obvious crack to the left of center.
[Hide Photo] Mosaic Rock (center) from the top of South Rock. Chicken Shit (5.7) ascends the green streak between the two trees to the start of Chicken Heads (5.7). The crack on the far right is Serpentine Cra…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty sure this route is bolted... Apr 11, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] There are no bolts on this route. The common direct start, Chicken Shit, has a single bolt but after that it's gear in cracks and chickenhead-slingin' fun. You may be thinking of Five Years After, just to the left, which has a couple of bolts. Apr 11, 2013