Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ambush Wall

Boiler Maker S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bong A Long S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chug A Jug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Drunk S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11d S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yuengling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,204 total, 17/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Crux is between the third and fourth bolt. Sequential and powerful climbing between the third and fourth bolt. And then its over. Really strange bolting locations. I did not find the arete on climbers right to be particularly useful.

Location

This is on the left (westish) side of the lower ambush wall. Not worth doing on its own right. However, if you are in the area its worth doing real quick.

Protection

4 quickdraws and two for the chains if someone wants to toprope the route.
Chris Doobtrain
Sandy, Utah
  5.11d PG13
Chris Doobtrain   Sandy, Utah
  5.11d PG13
This problem deserves two stars in my opinion. Its just hard, scary and if you dont have the length its dynamic. Super fun though, go for the redpoint after playing around with pre clips! Sep 21, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11-
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11-
2 move wonder. Big throw to get to the 3rd bolt. Gain a few inches reset your feet, and another big throw to the left. Clip the 4th bolt. Then it's over. Aug 11, 2012
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
This was actually a really good climb. I think whoever bolted this route had intended for you to follow the arete up, as that is where the hard moves are located. If you don't follow the arete and start halfway up (starting in the crack to the left), then it's probably only an .11a. For the .11d (probably more like .12a) follow the arete. Jul 11, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
A few powerful moves and the route is over. Reminds me of a high-ball boulder problem somewhere in the range of V2 or so. Jul 10, 2012
lewisslc
Salt Lake City, Ut
lewisslc   Salt Lake City, Ut
Sent this route this weekend (first time at this crag), and although the route is very bouldery and for sure, strenuous, i find it hard to believe the thing is an 11d. i would put it at the easier end of 11a or a hard 10c with a two move crux (i also clipped the first and second bolt before leading the rest). But it was fun for everyone...interesting little route. Sep 12, 2011
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
DUMB! Jul 11, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
I agree with the other ratings. They seemed a bit easier than rated, although my wife had a harder time on the 5.8 than expected. As far as the 11d, we climbed an 11d at the speed trap this morning with no problems. So, maybe I'm not just crazy. If we get a few more 11d's this week I'll know that the rating is off... Do you know where the loose rock was pulled? Was it at bolt 4? Jun 30, 2008
Suzanna  
One of the climbers yanked the loose rock off of this route Thursday night. Interesting that the rating is thought to be too low for this route (I couldn't say as I didn't try it). The other climbs in this area seem to be less difficult than their ratings. Jun 30, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
Holy Crap. Just tried this tonight. Is this really only an 5.11d??? We preclipped bolts 2 and 3 because a fall would be scary before bolt 3. We stayed just left of the corner to the right with right hand on the big shelf and feet underneath on the ledge, but there was no way we could get up! We just hit "Right Pile" (5.11d) this morning and it was challenging but there were no moves that we had a hard time doing. I just can't believe this is the same rating! Were we doing it wrong? See the posted pics. Jun 27, 2008
tytonic
Salt Lake City, UT
tytonic   Salt Lake City, UT
It's basically a boulder problem with bolts. I was able to hang draws on bolts 2 and 3 easily from the side and my belayer stood near the first bolt.

DON'T grab the block left of the 4th bolt marked with an X. The X means scary loose block not bomber hold. May 31, 2008