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Fuzzy Tights
5.6,
Trad, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
New York
> Little Falls
> Dihedrals
Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
A truly unique climb for Little Falls. The crux is getting yourself unstuck in the chimney after you mantle onto the block to get in the chimney. This is a good climb on a hot day, the chimney is like a refrigerator.
Location
This is on the "Tier of Fear" sector.
Climb
Prepare to meet thy God (5.7) to the Upper Tier. Look for the obvious chimney.
Protection
Gear is good. There's smaller cracks on the inside of the chimney for gear. Could also use a BD#4 or #10 hex.
I rapped from a bush at the top (sketchy). Thrash your way through the thorns and to the left at the top to rap from a tree.
Dolores, CO
Good times. Aug 1, 2008