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Billy Tipton
5.8+,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
New York
> Little Falls
> Dihedrals
Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
Much better than it looks from the ground. The first crux is the short, strenuous handcrack that is followed by a thank-god hold. The 2nd crux comes towards the top as you claw over dirty ledges...I think I pulled on some grass at the top..bring a shovel and a weedwhacker.
The route gets its name from a famous jazz musician who was actually discovered to be a woman upon his/her death.
Location
On the Berzin Buttress: From the left side of the crag, around the corner from a bolted arete. There's a large tree at the base and a small tree on a ledge about 15ft up. This route shares the start with
Haggis (5.6). When you get to the ledge, climb the obvious crack instead of the dihedral.
Protection
Gear is good. Up to BD#3.
Rap from a tree.
![Billy Upton climbs the obvious crack just to the right of us.]()
[Hide Photo] Billy Upton climbs the obvious crack just to the right of us.
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