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DJW Memorial

5.6, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
FA: Jim Knight
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Ed & Terry Wall

Description

DJW Memorial follows the ridge north of the main Ed and Terry Wall starting from just south of a small tower.

Climb past 3 bolts up the west face next to an arete and then traverse south on easy ground to a small, flat area. Start up the ridge arete again, placing medium gear as needed. Arrive at a steeper part of the arete and climb past one bolt, supplemented with gear as needed. Transition onto the west face and traverse past one bolt and the anchor of I'm Not Lichen This. Arrive at another steep arete and transition to the east face and climb past two more bolts. Top out on top of Ed and Terry and belay the second. Walk off to the south or rap from one of the Ed and Terry anchors.

The climbing is mellow with large positive holds and only a few moves on rock that approaches vertical. (The start is a bit scary because of loose and hollow sounding rock.) This route has somewhat of an alpine feel to it.

DJW Memorial is named after David Webb, an early Rock Canyon climber who was tragically killed in an automobile accident.

Location

Approach as usual for the Ed and Terry Wall but instead of going to the base of the main wall head left past the foot of the triangular formation just to the north and west of the main wall (The Pinkie). Scramble to the belay location directly south of the small tower that appears detached to the north of Ed and Terry.

Protection

A small amount of medium gear and 8 bolts. I used a triple-length sling on a horn and the following Camalot C4s: .75, 2, 3, 4. Gear anchor at the top. You'll probably want to sling a couple of the bolts and all of the gear long to minimize rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out on the ridge, coming up to the anchors. <br>
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A lot of rotten rock, especially at the beginning, but a fun little ridge scramble that feels a bit alpine.
[Hide Photo] Topping out on the ridge, coming up to the anchors. A lot of rotten rock, especially at the beginning, but a fun little ridge scramble that feels a bit alpine.
2 DJW Memorial 5.6
[Hide Photo] 2 DJW Memorial 5.6

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] i express thanks and gratitude for the setter of this route. truly has helped my family... thanks!

ass: son of DJW Sep 7, 2010
Alex Marsden
Utah
 
[Hide Comment] This was my first legit trad climb. I still didn't have a real rack and only had a set of nuts... There is a spot where you definitely need a cam probably a 5 or 6 dragon. Fun though and really exposed. Aug 14, 2013