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The Arrow

5.8+, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Little Falls > Dihedrals
Warning Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues DetailsDrop down

Description

The best handcrack I've seen in Little Falls! The first 15ft-ish is pure jamming with maybe one outside edge. It gets progressively wider the higher you go.

On my first attempt on this crack I slipped out of a jam low on the climb..my belayer took a #5 camalot to the face from my harness..ouch. The rock also gouged a hole in my knee. Maybe next time..

Location

This route is on the "Tire of Fear" sector.

The best way to access this area is by climbing Prepare to meet thy God (5.7) to a large, grassy ledge. Scramble up to the cliff band, this is the Upper Tier. This climb is located on the right side, just right of Trick Bag (5.11b sport)

Protection

Gear is good. BD#1-2 for the bottom. I can't tell you about the top..wide.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Not bad for Little Falls..
[Hide Photo] Not bad for Little Falls..

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean Nelb
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] This route protects well with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Beautiful line. Aug 6, 2007
[Hide Comment] go right under the small roof on the right at the top of the perfect crack for a nice well protected 9+ called risque shift,straight up from the perfect crack(top of arrow)is commiting with marginal pro but not that difficult. Oct 26, 2012