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Routes in The Dihedrals
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Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trick Bag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trojan Elite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,894 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Rafiki on Jul 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
The best handcrack I've seen in Little Falls! The first 15ft-ish is pure jamming with maybe one outside edge. It gets progressively wider the higher you go.
On my first attempt on this crack I slipped out of a jam low on the climb..my belayer took a #5 camalot to the face from my harness..ouch. The rock also gouged a hole in my knee. Maybe next time..
On my first attempt on this crack I slipped out of a jam low on the climb..my belayer took a #5 camalot to the face from my harness..ouch. The rock also gouged a hole in my knee. Maybe next time..
Location
This route is on the "Tire of Fear" sector.
The best way to access this area is by climbing Prepare to meet thy God (5.7) to a large, grassy ledge. Scramble up to the cliff band, this is the Upper Tier. This climb is located on the right side, just right of Trick Bag (5.11b sport)
The best way to access this area is by climbing Prepare to meet thy God (5.7) to a large, grassy ledge. Scramble up to the cliff band, this is the Upper Tier. This climb is located on the right side, just right of Trick Bag (5.11b sport)
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