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Process of Elimination

5.11b, Sport, 45 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 63 votes
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Summersville &… > Summersville La… > DC Memorial Boulder

Description

Start on sloping jugs under a sloping ledge, throw a high heel, lock off and use the crimps to gain the slopers on the ledge (1st crux), latch the crimp go up and right to a jug, then continue up the super pumpy flake to the top horn (2d crux) for a pumpy but easy anchor clip.

Location

Right most route on the overhanging portion of this boulder.

Protection

3 bolts to anchors.
Up until recently these bolts regularly lost their hangers and nuts. Recently (August 2007) Jim Taylor replaced them with some glue-ins that may look weak(some say they look like paperclips or staples), but they are much, much stronger than the rock around them, and at least as strong as the previous bolts that were installed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Muel just starting his (successful) onsight attempt.
[Hide Photo] Muel just starting his (successful) onsight attempt.
Muel chalking before finishing up the flake
[Hide Photo] Muel chalking before finishing up the flake

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Garancosky
State College, PA
 
[Hide Comment] so when did the name change from "Year of the Psycho Bitch"? Mar 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] Lots of summersville route names got changed in the more recent guidebooks. Not sure if the FA had different names originally or if they were renamed. Mar 8, 2017