Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,634 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

Start on jugs, make a couple of powerful moves up to the big sloper (or the finger lock to the left) then move up past a couple of crimps to the sloper to make hte last clip before the anchors. Make the crux move out right to the flake then either dyno to the top or match on the flake and go up.

This climb is one of my hardest yet, took one day of work to figure out the moves (there are a million sucker holds) then got it as my first climb without a warmup the next day. I love this climb, no tendon busters but crimps and big powerful moves.

Location

2nd route left to right on this boulder's overhanging section

Protection

3 Bolts to anchors (why only one quick clip at anchor?)
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12b
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12b
Bouldery movement, tough sloper move down low. Use a drop knee to reach right to the flake on the final sequence. Jan 28, 2011
will merryman
Monaca P.A.
 
will merryman   Monaca P.A.
 
pumppy as hell for three bolt climb. Aug 19, 2012
BrianWS
  5.12b
BrianWS  
  5.12b
Bouldering on a rope at its best. Shame it isn't any taller! Feb 10, 2013
B Woods
Chattanooga TN
  5.12b
B Woods   Chattanooga TN
  5.12b
Concerned about the anchors on this one. I don't have any experience bolting, but I do have 2 engineering degrees. Seems like the one quick link on this route is held in mainly by a washer. It looks like the ID of the anchor is larger than the OD of the nut and someone threw a washer in there and called it a day. Washers are meant to set preload and prevent surface damage, not hold a load. If a flanged nut was used it would be fine, but I don't think a regular nut will cut it. Just my observations, if I am wrong about this don't take offense, I just don't want to see anyone getting hurt. Mar 16, 2019 · Temporary Report