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North Face

Steep Snow, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
FA: 1930, Eichorn, Dawson, Olmstead
California > High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pas… > Mt Darwin

Description


Mostly, the route is 45 degree snow. At the top of the couloir it ramps up to a bit less than 50 degrees and in later season turns into ice.

Location

The route follows the couloir between the northeast ridge and the rib east of the Darwin glacier.

Protection

Perhaps an ice tool is needed in late summer and fall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

MP says 45-50 degrees, but I don't think it was that steep. Maybe 45 at best but mostly 40-ish mellowing out toward 35 at the bottom of the apron.
[Hide Photo] MP says 45-50 degrees, but I don't think it was that steep. Maybe 45 at best but mostly 40-ish mellowing out toward 35 at the bottom of the apron.
Skiing the upper N Face of Mt. Darwin
[Hide Photo] Skiing the upper N Face of Mt. Darwin
The top of the right hand branch of the North Face route - 5 July 2020.
[Hide Photo] The top of the right hand branch of the North Face route - 5 July 2020.
Looking down the righthand branch just before the last thin section to the plateau - 5 July 2020.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the righthand branch just before the last thin section to the plateau - 5 July 2020.
On the approach to the std N Face route in June 1981. Perfect conditions the whole week I was out there.
[Hide Photo] On the approach to the std N Face route in June 1981. Perfect conditions the whole week I was out there.
Skiing lower on the N Face of Mt. Darwin
[Hide Photo] Skiing lower on the N Face of Mt. Darwin
The exposed summit block
[Hide Photo] The exposed summit block
Handsome Mt. Darwin in early May 2017.
[Hide Photo] Handsome Mt. Darwin in early May 2017.
Nearing the top of the line
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of the line
Booting up the N Face
[Hide Photo] Booting up the N Face
Mt. Darwin N Face, spring conditions (early May)
[Hide Photo] Mt. Darwin N Face, spring conditions (early May)
Approaching Mt. Darwin
[Hide Photo] Approaching Mt. Darwin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

213blc
THA WEST COAST
  Mod. Snow
[Hide Comment] stars refer to fantastic quality of this as a ski descent. pretend you are jeremy nobis and let 'em fly! Jul 18, 2010
Dave Alden
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Any approach info? Nov 8, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] Here for approach info. Dec 13, 2013
Michael Hauss
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Aaron Richards and I climbed this face a few days ago. We followed the route shown in red. Steep Snow and 3 (70 meter) pitches of 5.8 rock
Jun 1, 2014
Bas Cuela
Fresno, CA
[Hide Comment] Ehh... Uploaded cause.
Jul 23, 2014
JJ Klingler
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] You can descend the West Ridge route or the ridge that is to your right as you ascend the couloir. The route I took down the rib was mostly class 3 with a few class 4 moves here and there and takes you all the way down it. Jul 13, 2020