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Routes in Strategery Wall

Art of War, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Strategery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Un-named 01 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Un-named 02 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weapons of Mass Deception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Scott & Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Adams on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

One of the better routes in this area.

Location

First route on topo.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12a
This is a good route with very fun moves over a roof. Mid way after the under clings I traversed a little right into a corner and stemmed for two moves then went back on face. I think if you climbed the face direct it would be pretty solid 12c. I tried the straight up way with my partner a couple times and neither of us could do the moves. We are both very solid at the 12a grade and no way is direct up the face 12a. I think it still feels 12a if you use the corner out right, and this doesn't even feel that off route as you can still clip all the bolts fairly easily. Sep 28, 2013
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
I found the first 2 bolts powerful, and the traverse a bit pumpy, but thought the crux was around the 6th bolt right after the small ledge with good underclings. Finding the right crimpy sequence through this section without cutting your palms up is quite a feat! This area needs more traffic and is still very dirty/dusty. Sep 3, 2007