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Routes in Left End

Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock n Road T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Denny Newell, and Scott Beguin
Page Views: 161 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start the route via a 4th class scramble to the beginning of the leaning finger crack dihedral. The crux is a thin fingers/stemming problem in the first twenty feet and then eases up just a tad and turns into a wide vassicular hands/fist crack. Belay from a tree on the top. This is a Diablo shorty classic, but needs lowering anchors now that the crag is finally seeing some traffic.

Location

1st beautiful overhanging washed crack to the right of Early Arete on The Early Wall

Protection

A 60 meter rope, 1/4"-4" cams, 1 set of stoppers, and runners. Belay off of a tree on the top and walk off to the east.

Photos

This is another Diablo climb which probably saw recent FAs? in the 1990s. We cleaned a large flake off the left wall prior to the ascent. Apr 2, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Anchor bolts placed! Will be shared with a really good face route up the middle of the slab. Sep 26, 2011

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