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California 12a

5.12c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 37 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (04) Second Pul… > California 12a
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

A fun roof problem leads to a steep, awkward crack (Yosemite climbers should have no problem with this one).

Protection

7 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Location

Due east of the Magic Bus but more directly approached from the Rescue Wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michael DeWitt working on California 5.12a.
[Hide Photo] Michael DeWitt working on California 5.12a.
Awesome sunset photo. Couldn't ask for a better shot:)
[Hide Photo] Awesome sunset photo. Couldn't ask for a better shot:)
Corinne Lee enjoying the view while lowering from California 5.12. Photo by Joseph Lascurain
[Hide Photo] Corinne Lee enjoying the view while lowering from California 5.12. Photo by Joseph Lascurain
Birdie with some sweet toe hook beta in the post-break crux.
[Hide Photo] Birdie with some sweet toe hook beta in the post-break crux.
me working through the fun series of heel-hooks in the roof section
[Hide Photo] me working through the fun series of heel-hooks in the roof section
Eric at the anchors of California 5.12
[Hide Photo] Eric at the anchors of California 5.12
Working the beautiful crack after getting past the roof
[Hide Photo] Working the beautiful crack after getting past the roof
Califonia 12a
[Hide Photo] Califonia 12a
Califonia 12a
[Hide Photo] Califonia 12a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Adam
California
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. Thanks, John, for the re-bolting effort. Jan 14, 2012
Josh Janes

  5.12c
[Hide Comment] The anchor has been moved higher to the no-hands rest and true finish to the route. Now the old anchor has become the last pro bolt and thus the climb has a total of 7 pro bolts leading to an anchor equipped with mussy hooks. Oct 28, 2015
John Hovell
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Seems this route is no longer perma-drawed which is too bad since it basically requires re-climbing the route on TR to clean. Are perma-draws an issue at Red Rock? Or leaving your own draws on the route overnight? Fun movement and great combination of face climbing and jamming. Jan 3, 2018
Josh Janes

  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Leave your draws if you want - remove them when you’re done. It takes about 5 minutes to scramble to the top of this and lower down equipping the route as you go. A stick clip helps for the lowest bolts. Jan 3, 2018
Ryan Surface
Kansas City
[Hide Comment] Jug bashing to a hand crack, what more could you want? Oct 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] I sadly ripped off the remnants of an undercling that had been mostly already destroyed between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It had a bit of glue residue above it indicating it used to be a fairly sizeable hold that is now completely gone. I believe the route still goes with a long move from the 2nd jug to a bad slopey gaston-dish, but it is most definitely (A LOT) harder than 12c... much more core tension and shoulder power now required. Jan 4, 2021
MilesC
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] I did the new crux move today - some foot trickery and a big cross off the sloper.

I'd say the whole thing is now around 5.13a/b... which ironically puts it at California 12c! I'd say it's still classic at a new grade. Apr 13, 2021