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Turds in the Punchbowl

5.12b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Eagle/Vail/Mint… > Lime Park (a.k.… > Punchbowl
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall DetailsDrop down

Description

Turds in the Punchbowl climbs the tan-colored buttress to the right of Drive By Shooting. Despite its proximity to its neightobr, the rock here is not nearly as good as the stone to the left. There are pockets of excellent limestone, but there is also a good bit of spooky choss.

The line begins with a difficult, thrutchy crux on shattered rock, to get established in the low corner. Easy moves up the steepening corner lead to a nice stance right on the prow. The desparate crux follows, moving over the slight bulge via rounded sidepulls. The juggy horizontal break above is a great relief. Move up easier ledges on brown rock to the poor anchor.

Location

Turds is the next bolted line right of Drive By Shooting. Currently this is the third route right of the bolted dihedral.

From L->R:
Corporate Greed, 5.9, bolted dihedral.
Snipe Hunter, 12c, new route.
Drive By Shooting, 11d.
Turds in the Punchbowl, "12a".

Protection

10 Bolts. Stick clip highly recommended for the difficult start on poor rock. The anchor is two Metolius Rap Hangers. Four screwlinks or two screlinks & some chain would really improve the situation at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cruxin'.
[Hide Photo] Cruxin'.
The difficult opening sequence of Turds.
[Hide Photo] The difficult opening sequence of Turds.
Finishing up the harder-than-it-looks shallow corner.  The business lurks higher.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up the harder-than-it-looks shallow corner. The business lurks higher.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] I'm told this is 12a. This was the hardest 12a I've done in a long time. Aug 10, 2009
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Got on this last weekend, I feel it's a one move wonder for a crux, which is technical-funky and a little show stopperish. Aug 1, 2011
Kelsey Tennett
Summersville, WV
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is actually super fun and much cleaner than the 12s at Secret Stash. There is also crimpy, technical crux beta for folks who don't prefer jumping. The only thing turdy about this climb is the current anchor set up. It could really benefit from some quicklinks. Jul 18, 2021