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Routes in South Whizz Dome

Blackout (direct start) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0 X
Body Count S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Body and Soul T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Shadow Warriors S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 118 ft
FA: Falkenstein
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

I've done other Falkenstein routes that I thought were awesome but this rig is not the case...First of all, you have to climb up a 7 foot hand-placed log (A0) and then pull on the first bolt to stand on the log (A0). From this point its a 10+ move to fun 5.9 and an 11a move over a bulge. From the ledge the climbing is totally contrived...The moves off the ledge use holds on Blackout (a classic run-out pitch on the left) but the bolts on Body Count are far to the right. For pretty much the rest of the way, the moves are awkwardly unaesthetic. The climbing is definitely hard but so off character from anything else here.

Protection

Many bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

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Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
 
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
 
I think that the true line on this follows directly along the bolt line. We were able to do the the route without breaking left into Blackout, and although you can traverse off the bolt line into larger holds, the direct line is hard, sustained knob climbing. Felt more mid-12, but I'm new to Tuolumne so perhaps I'm just weak. Fun line, although more interesting in its technical sequencing than much else. Sep 27, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Jeez Alex, that's kinda harsh! I thought this route was great, but yes, slightly contrived. I wound up moving left onto the other route in the black streak and then way right at one point as well. Still quite fun though, and pretty hard I thought. Aug 6, 2009