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Roaches on the Wall

5.10, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 82 votes
FA: FA--Jerry Hoover and Bob Bushart, 9/79 FFA--Rick Fleming, 5/80
New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Description

Roaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.

In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.

This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!

Location

From the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.

The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.

Protection

1 Bolt and a standard rack to a yellow Camalot.

Chain anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on the Wall
[Hide Photo] Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on the Wall
Rich Leswing leading Roaches on the Wall in 1983. Photo by Jamie (Jim) Cunningham
[Hide Photo] Rich Leswing leading Roaches on the Wall in 1983. Photo by Jamie (Jim) Cunningham
Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
[Hide Photo] Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
[Hide Photo] Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
[Hide Photo] Roaches, Pitchoff, ADK.
Crux of Roaches.
[Hide Photo] Crux of Roaches.
Scott Arno entering the crux of Roaches on the Wall(5.10b)
[Hide Photo] Scott Arno entering the crux of Roaches on the Wall(5.10b)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I agree that this is a safe route to break into 5.10 on. The crux is high enough for there to be a lot of room for a fall, on pretty vertical terrain, and well protected (I found micro-cams helpful). As well, the crux is short-lived. Aug 3, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
[Hide Comment] This is old-school 5.10; it ain't no weenie Red Rocks clip-up. Jan 16, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Trying to on-sight the crux of this is sort of like accidentally sticking your hand in a bees nest. At first you're a little surprised, then you get nervous, and then you have to make the decision to move out ... or run around getting stung. That being said, there is a pot of honey at the top and it's worth a few stings. Very well protected though, fell once off the crux with gear near my feet and, with a nice soft catch, experienced nothing more than a few butterflies. Apr 19, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This climb is a sandbag as an onsight espppppecially if you have bigger fingers! Once you figure out the moves, 5.10b sounds semi appropriate. Legend has it that Russ Raffa flailed on this thing on his onsight attempt! Direct start adds a fun 5.11 move and takes gear if you can reach it! Jun 25, 2015
rocknice2
Montreal, QC
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] Definitely not a safe way to break into 5.10
The start has a finger traverse without any real feet for about 20'. The only stance along the horizontal crack from which you can protect from is once your directly under the bolt. At least there are some large boulders to land on. 😡
After that the climb is G rated. Jul 5, 2015
[Hide Comment] One of the more Classic classics I've ever done. Highly recommended. May 24, 2016
[Hide Comment] I have to disagree with Rocknice2. The traverse is no where near 20 ft and probably closer to 8-10 ft. While it is not insignificant as you start to move left feet quickly appear and the hands get better. I threw a cam in during the traverse and was able to back clean it very easily once I had gear more in line with the bolt. The traverse is certainly no reason to miss this fantastic climb. Jul 7, 2019