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Routes in Gold Chasm

Swift Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Forkash and Matt Clarke 1980
Page Views: 411 total, 3/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Hand jam your way up an obvious 5.8 lieback crack to a sandy ledge. From here, you can lower off a questionable bolt anchor, or you may continue diagonally up and left via strenuous finger-locks (5.11). The rock on the second section doesn't see a lot of ascents and is therefore on the chossy side, but increased traffic and (perhaps) a motivated bloke with a brush could turn this route into a classic pitch.


You can't miss this line; it's the obvious left-facing corner system.


Hands to fingers. Bring doubles in the finger size if continuing past the first anchor. NOTE: there are bolts for the second section of the climb, but they are fairly old and rusted. If you intend to clip them, I recommend placing your own gear as well to back them up.


- No Photos -
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Heck no.

Replace away!

Someday I'll go back and climb that crack again. I remember really enjoying it. Apr 29, 2014
Jon Hanlon   SLO
I agree, keep the brush at home. Sandstone and brush don't mix, and this one will always be a sand mine.

I rapped off that lone, questionable bolt about 17 years ago. It scared the sh#t out of me then, and I don't even want to imagine what it looks like now... May 19, 2009
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I think a motivated bloke with a brush would just turn this into a sandy roof climbing. It's never cleaning up. Nice to look at, yes, but the rock here is, unfortunately, some of the worst in the area. May 18, 2009