PRINT: Rock Climb Devil's Corner, Little Falls

Devil's Corner

5.11b, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Chris Davis (ca 1978-1982)
New York > Little Falls > Dihedrals

Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues Details

This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.

Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.

Description

Wow..one of the most aesthetic lines in Little Falls. A laser cut dihedral with the absence of face holds for the crux section.

Location

Obvious thin dihedral on the right side of the crag.

Protection

I've only TRd this line. The gear would be small pieces but plenty of placements are available. Blue/green/yellow alien range for the crux section.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The major dihedral on the left is Devil's Corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

aparnas

The best single pitch crack-in-a-corner climb I've seen this side of Indian Creek. It felt damn hard for the grade to me, but I don't have a lot of experience in this type of climb. Gear is good. BD 0.3 - 2 cams and a couple beautiful small/med nuts sew this up. May 24, 2018