Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Chocolate Glove

5.9+ PG13, Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 9 votes
FA: Scott Beguin, Jason Hundhausen
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > Dungeon > Black Wall

Description

This mixed route starts on the north end of The Black Wall. It shares the first three bolts of The Reverend Mr. Black, which might be considered the crux, and then continues left up a diagnalling crack traverse to a sweet wide crack dihedral to a two bolt anchor with rappel gear. It might be considered a little dirty, but entertaining never the less. There are some outward inverted fist jams mixed with some crimpers and stemming for some fun and different type of climbing for The Dungeon.

Protection

(3) quickdraws for the bottom, (1) 1/4" blue Alien for the traverse, and #3-#5 Camalots and some 24" trad. runners for the top dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Trugman
Reno, NV
  5.9
[Hide Comment] You probably could lead this with a standard rack of single cams up to #4. Didn't find any small gear for the traverse and the terrain is super easy but I did manage to throw in a marginal .75. The crack up high takes tricky gear but if you fiddle enough it will be all right. Crux probably is around the third bolt of the sport route (5.9ish) with the high crack being about 5.8. Definitely a different type of climbing for the Dungeon. Apr 29, 2009