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Routes in Black Wall

Bouldering Cave Left V1 5
Chocolate Glove T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rampage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reverend Mr. Black, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Beguin, Jason Hundhausen
Page Views: 622 total, 5/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This mixed route starts on the north end of The Black Wall. It shares the first three bolts of The Reverend Mr. Black, which might be considered the crux, and then continues left up a diagnalling crack traverse to a sweet wide crack dihedral to a two bolt anchor with rappel gear. It might be considered a little dirty, but entertaining never the less. There are some outward inverted fist jams mixed with some crimpers and stemming for some fun and different type of climbing for The Dungeon.

Protection

(3) quickdraws for the bottom, (1) 1/4" blue Alien for the traverse, and #3-#5 Camalots and some 24" trad. runners for the top dihedral.

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
You probably could lead this with a standard rack of single cams up to #4. Didn't find any small gear for the traverse and the terrain is super easy but I did manage to throw in a marginal .75. The crack up high takes tricky gear but if you fiddle enough it will be all right. Crux probably is around the third bolt of the sport route (5.9ish) with the high crack being about 5.8. Definitely a different type of climbing for the Dungeon. Apr 29, 2009