To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Hotter Than Hell
5.9,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 191
votes
FA: Matt Peer and Greg Stemley, May 29, 1980
New Hampshire
> Whitehorse Ledge
> 2. S Buttress
> Inferno - Atlantis Area
Description
Low angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.
Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab ("Cathonian Slab" ) with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts (the climb " Brimstone" variously rated between 5.5 and 5.7) to the tree ledge where the route actually starts.
Alternately, hike steeply up to the left of this slab, then make a move back right (beware pine needles and leaves !) to gain the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab and walk right to below the start.
Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.
I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.
For ease of reference, here's the description of the top of Inferno: Pitch 3: (5.8) From the tree ledge belay...Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
Location
All the way to the left on the South Buttress, you will find a slab with 2 bolts just right of a dirty gully. Climb the 2 bolt slab (spicy 5.7) or head up the gully and traverse on to the tree ledge where the route starts under a couple of small roofs above which you will see a bolt.
Protection
There are many bolts, but gear comes in handy, so bring a normal/light rack.
[Hide Photo] Telephoto of the Upper Crack on Inferno and the Exit Moves. You can belay in the niche just right of the tree. Not a bad idea, since the exit moves go left, then back up right and are not trivial.
[Hide Comment] Our party did this line as a means to get at Inferno on our last trip to Whitehorse. Great line but be prepared. It's spicy. Perhaps not ideal for taking inexperienced seconds due to tricky traverses.
Jan 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] if you blew off the traverse at the wrong spot you could hit the ledge (leading or following)... that sounds worth a little warning to me if you might be thinking of bringing a less experienced climber on it... other routes might have longer runouts but no danger for the second...
Jul 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great Climb; but I would not consider it spicy. It is one of the most solid 5.9's on this part of the ledge. I find it most challanging (and fun!) getting into the alcove, but there is a bolt at you waist.
The traverse is solid. Just take your time. All the moves are there.
Aug 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] MJO, I would have to disagree and say that I find Hotter to be spicy. The route is safe no doubt, but the climbing can be insecure at spots and somewhat run out (while still with in the PG range.) If some one unfamiliar with thin face climbing gets on this, especially on a hot day as, many make the mistake of doing, it can certainly be scary.
As for solid 5.9's on this part of the cliff, the only other classic 5.9's I'm familiar with on this part would be Cold Day and Childrens crusade., Both of which I consider to be slightly harder, but not as spicy as Hotter....IMHO.
Aug 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] True, Hotter Than Hell should not be climbed on a hot day, and the heat and humidity does make it grades harder/scarier. I'm a big fan of face climbs and I find this one to be one of my favorites. The bolts are evenly spaced and right where I need them.
The other climbs I was refering to were Jacobs Ladder, Atlantis, Cemetary Gates, as well as the ones you quoted. I know some of these are graded harder than Hotter but share pitches of similar grades and quality.
If you go over to Cathedral and enjoy The Siagon Sisters (5.8) I think that Hotter is a great next step up.
Thanks for the comment and suggestions. Autumn is nearly upon us; enjoy the climbing!
Aug 30, 2010
[Hide Comment] I'm not a regular to the area but... I've led the Saigon's and didn't see any issues for an inexperienced second. Don't get me wrong... the moves on HTH are there, it's a great climb, but I wouldn't want my second to blow it after unclipping the bolt heading into the traverse.
Just thought I'd mention it up there since Inferno's upper pitches are so nice that's a logical place to introduce someone to the sport.
[Hide Comment] To avoid the "spice"- start directly under the end of the traverse and go up to the bolt, maybe even a bit of gear. It's not very hard and the second should not have a problem. We started this way for Burning Down the House.
Sep 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] I climbed this last week with 2 relatively new seconds, To protect the traverse I lead with 2 single ropes as if they were doubles. When the first second completed the traverse I had them reclip the other rope to the 2nd bolt after the traverse. Youll take a bit of a swing if you fall but wont fall over the roof
Jul 22, 2011
[Hide Comment] I just got on this yesterday for the first time. my opinion is that you could hurt yourself if you blew it on the traverse, in agreement with a few others of you above. however, i didn't find those moves to be terribly challenging. i thought higher up the moves thinned out a bit, or at least, i had a harder time finding the holds. by that point though, you're in good shape and a fall wouldn't be dangerous (IMO). i plugged a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and it didn't then seem runout to me, except for the pendulum to the ledge potential during the lower traverse. It's a super route though. I can't wait to get back on it.
Apr 29, 2013
[Hide Comment] I climbed this earlier in the week and don't recall the traverse being too dangerous. Not to say it isn't, but from what I remember - it's a very thoughtful sequence, however all the moves are there. There may be some danger for the 2nd, if they unclip the bolt and fall...the rope stretch may lead them back down to the ledge. My partner is very good at delicate moves though so I wasn't worried about her falling.
Incredible line! Awesome, thin moves and very careful climbing. If you don't climb Inferno after this you're silly.
Aug 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] Am I the only one that noticed the rusted SMC hangers? Every hanger and bolt should be replaced on this pitch. I am sure the ASCA would happily donate SS bolts and hangers. The pitch would remain intense but safe.
Jun 19, 2015
[Hide Comment] our first climb ever in North Conway. Quite the introduction. Felt stiff for a 9, but, it did lead to the upper pitches of Inferno, making it worth the effort
Jun 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] After reading these comments, then doing the traverse, I immediately thought to myself "That's it!?" after I did it. I mean, be careful, but it's pretty easy relative to the rest of the climb and is pretty well-protected too... I'd be hesitant to even call it PG to be honest. Do not let those comments discourage you from getting on this route. If you are confident enough to hop on a 5.9 at Whitehorse, you will be fine!
Nov 2, 2016
[Hide Comment] I am wondering if it would be possible to rappel HTH and Inferno with a single 80 meter rope? It would be nice to avoid dragging a tag line up. Thanks for any info!
Jun 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] Tyler, I rapped the route with double 60m ropes the other day we we used almost the whole 60m to get to the ground. Maybe, you could get to the ledge on top of the 1st 5.7 slab pitch and scramble down climbers left with an 80m rope, but that would be pushing it I think. If you finish on Inferno and do one of the routes on Cosmic Crag you will summit Whitehorse and can then walkoff, as per standard route or the hikers trail (look up the trails and maybe a trail map ahead of time because they can be a little hard to find if you haven't used them before). That would save you having to bring a tag line too.
Jun 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] After the alcove my hand brushed an old paper wasp nest in a crack. Nothing stung me so I assume it is not active, but someone who is ok with tempting fate might want to clean it out of the crack.
Jun 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] I just climbed this route yesterday, and am a bit confused with the start. Based on the picture in the guidebook, it looks like the route starts to the very left of the ledge, but also says there are rap slings on the tree which there are not. There are however rap slings on a tree on the right of the ledge. I climbed it from the left, which made for a huge traverse (~35ft) before turning vertical, and it felt really spicy. Another party clearly climbed it recently because there was a lot of chalk coming into the climb from the right side of the ledge, which would make for a much shorter traverse (~10ft) and which would not be spicy at all. Maybe this explains why some people think the traverse is spicy and others don't?
Also I thought the route was good but not worth the hype. The upper pitches of Inferno were excellent.
Aug 31, 2017
[Hide Comment] Pretty good route. Not that spicy, and pretty soft for the grade I thought. We started with the easy pull over the roof to the left of the top out of the 5.7 slab. The traverse from there was long but not hard.
Aug 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] Excellent bolted slab. Yes this is steep thoughtful slab climbing basically. Early traverses are easier but middle bolts are a bit spicy -- thin feet, very thin hands. Chance of dangerous swing is low since early traverse bolts are on 5.7 to 5.8 terrain. Can improve follower swing protection with double ropes by clipping second rope later (bolt 4 or 5).
For approach: 18 minute walk on yellow blazed trail marked (in woods near hotel parking lot near Whitehorse slab junction) by clear "South Butress" sign on large tree. Notice light climber's trail heading uphill to right. Arrives at base of Hotter Than Hell first pitch slab (on left) as well as (on right) start of Inferno.
Sep 22, 2018
[Hide Comment] HTH has some tricky slab moves. There's no specific crux, but several spots with limited features to use, and slabby friction techniques are needed. Often not near a bolt! Pretty nice pitch.
May 15, 2020
[Hide Comment] Not sure if it was the humidity and heat of summer, but the second pitch is pretty full value for the grade I thought. The holds are quite odd and none are as good as you're wanting. RAP BETA:You should be able to rap with a 70m rope using the tree station that is 20ft to the climber's left af the top of the route. (either walk off the last ledge to climber's left or replace the little tat on the last tree for the last 30ft rappel
Jul 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] The photos in Jerry Handren's guidebook marking the start of this climb seem to be faulty. The dotted line in the guidebook shows the route starting at the far left end of the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab, but the route actually starts just to the left of the big pine tree on the ledge at the top of Brimstone (5.5), quite a bit farther to the right than is pictured in the guidebook. Nathan Stokes's 2010 photo (on this page) shows the correct start to the route, and his comment attached to the photo is correct too.
Nov 1, 2022
[Hide Comment] Slab climbing is not my favorite but it makes you appreciate Inferno that much more once you get to it. None of the moves are tough but it was mentally exhausting.
May 31, 2023
[Hide Comment] Climbed HTH yesterday in perfect November weather. The mantle move into the alcove is well protected with a bolt, I actually took an exciting but inconsequential whip trying to approach it from the wrong side.
That being said, is it possible a 4' x 5' slab of rock, including a bolt, could have fallen off about 4 bolts below the alcove? There was a lighter brown exposed area that doesn't show on the topos, leaving undercling holds and no where to place protection. An extra bolt at that specific spot would've made sense, since as-is, there was a notable runout between the bottom right-most bolt after the traverse and the next one. Enough that a fall just before clipping it would risk hitting the ledge below. The moves above the underclings to clip that bolt weren't trivial either compared to the rest of the route. Just curious. Unless I read it completely wrong, that portion of the climb felt extra spicy to me.
Nov 6, 2023
Avg: 3.2 from 191
votes
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Prospect, CT
Fredericton, New Brunswick
southern colo
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
southern colo
The traverse is solid. Just take your time. All the moves are there. Aug 29, 2010
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I would have to disagree and say that I find Hotter to be spicy. The route is safe no doubt, but the climbing can be insecure at spots and somewhat run out (while still with in the PG range.) If some one unfamiliar with thin face climbing gets on this, especially on a hot day as, many make the mistake of doing, it can certainly be scary.
As for solid 5.9's on this part of the cliff, the only other classic 5.9's I'm familiar with on this part would be Cold Day and Childrens crusade., Both of which I consider to be slightly harder, but not as spicy as Hotter....IMHO. Aug 29, 2010
The other climbs I was refering to were Jacobs Ladder, Atlantis, Cemetary Gates, as well as the ones you quoted. I know some of these are graded harder than Hotter but share pitches of similar grades and quality.
If you go over to Cathedral and enjoy The Siagon Sisters (5.8) I think that Hotter is a great next step up.
Thanks for the comment and suggestions. Autumn is nearly upon us; enjoy the climbing! Aug 30, 2010
Fredericton, New Brunswick
Just thought I'd mention it up there since Inferno's upper pitches are so nice that's a logical place to introduce someone to the sport.
Cheers. Sep 7, 2010
southern colo
Wakefield, RI
southern colo
Finish up inferno- very cool- bring some extra medium cams Nov 19, 2012
Framingham, MA
It's a super route though. I can't wait to get back on it. Apr 29, 2013
Gunks NY
Incredible line! Awesome, thin moves and very careful climbing. If you don't climb Inferno after this you're silly. Aug 9, 2013
PAYSON
Gardiner, NY
southern colo
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Carbondale, CO
Burlington, VT
Burlington, VT
Fredericton, NB
Maybe this explains why some people think the traverse is spicy and others don't?
Also I thought the route was good but not worth the hype. The upper pitches of Inferno were excellent. Aug 31, 2017
North Conway, NH
Little Rock, AR
Watertown, MA
For approach: 18 minute walk on yellow blazed trail marked (in woods near hotel parking lot near Whitehorse slab junction) by clear "South Butress" sign on large tree. Notice light climber's trail heading uphill to right. Arrives at base of Hotter Than Hell first pitch slab (on left) as well as (on right) start of Inferno. Sep 22, 2018
Salt Lake
Salt Lake City, UT
The holds are quite odd and none are as good as you're wanting.
RAP BETA:You should be able to rap with a 70m rope using the tree station that is 20ft to the climber's left af the top of the route.
(either walk off the last ledge to climber's left or replace the little tat on the last tree for the last 30ft rappel Jul 19, 2022
Tamworth, NH
The dotted line in the guidebook shows the route starting at the far left end of the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab, but the route actually starts just to the left of the big pine tree on the ledge at the top of Brimstone (5.5), quite a bit farther to the right than is pictured in the guidebook. Nathan Stokes's 2010 photo (on this page) shows the correct start to the route, and his comment attached to the photo is correct too. Nov 1, 2022
CT
Montreal, QC
That being said, is it possible a 4' x 5' slab of rock, including a bolt, could have fallen off about 4 bolts below the alcove? There was a lighter brown exposed area that doesn't show on the topos, leaving undercling holds and no where to place protection. An extra bolt at that specific spot would've made sense, since as-is, there was a notable runout between the bottom right-most bolt after the traverse and the next one. Enough that a fall just before clipping it would risk hitting the ledge below. The moves above the underclings to clip that bolt weren't trivial either compared to the rest of the route. Just curious. Unless I read it completely wrong, that portion of the climb felt extra spicy to me. Nov 6, 2023