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Routes in Mitten Slab

Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mitten Slab S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,093 total, 32/month
Shared By: dannys on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

P.1: (5.4) This route is (presently) the only climb on this wall, so the start should be obvious. Climb an easy slab straight up past several bolts for about 70' to a 2 bolt anchor.

P.2: (5.10b) Climb easy but soft and hollow rock up to the roof and the first bolt of this pitch. Pull out the roof on much better rock (9) and angle right on a nice, varnished slab to another steep bulge. Pull this bulge on small holds and climb up to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 60', 7 bolts, slings are handy.

P.3: (5.8) Climb right off belay to a bolt and then up on easy ground to another bolt. Pass this bolt and a short crux to a crack and follow to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 70' 2 bolts, a #0.75 BD Cam will protect the crack, but it is not necessary.

P.4: (5.9-) Head left off belay to a bolt. Extend this clip and climb up and right to a varnished slab. Edge up this past 3 bolts to a horizontal break and bust left for about 10' to 15'. Clip a bolt and head up and right again to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 80', 6 bolts.

P.5: (5.8) Climb up and left in a gully to a bolt. Climb past more bolts on the excellent face passing up a 2 bolt rap station along the way to the top of the "thumb" where you will find a 4 bolt anchor in some soft rock, 180', 9-10 bolts.

Location

Rap the route. It is possible with a single 60m, but be aware of rope snagging flakes.

Protection

10 draws, 8 or 10 slings for anchors and wandering pitches and some spare biners and lockers is all you will need for the climb.
The first pitch is really fun, has seven bolts, and is 80 feet long. Getting to the first bolt on the second pitch appears to be protectable by something like a #5 Camalot, #7 Tricam, or #3 Bigbro, in a short slot about five feet above the chain anchor. About five feet higher, under the overhang, something like a #1 or 2 Camalot may be placed and extended with a long sling.

Sok Rot is a two-pitch extension of any of the five bolted routes (incl. Ladies First), far to the right of the Mitten route. Oct 20, 2013
Alex Garhart
  5.10
Alex Garhart  
  5.10
Great route with well-protected cruxes. Some thought provoking distance between the bolts on the easier sections. The rock was much better than expected, more solid than many climbs in the Colorado National Monument. We rappelled the route with a 60 meter rope and had no problems.

One of my favorite multi-pitch slabs, up there with Davis Face in Buena Vista. Nov 18, 2012
Do not link the first 2 pitches. Even with extending clips, it felt like I was dragging an anchor up with me. Jun 3, 2011
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
The run outs are generally pretty freaking cruiser though possibly R rated in spots. My friend lead all the easy pitches, and it was his first time climbing outdoors with ropes and his first lead. NTB. Getting to the 1st bolt on the crux pitch seemed a little heads up. All in all a pretty good route, lots of fun climbing that reminds me of a few routes on the Front Range. I feel like it would be nicer if the route went to the top, one more pitch is all it would take and it looks like there could be fun climbing out left from the belay if someone wants to bolt it. I'd imagine it stops due to soft rock hence the four bolts at the belay station, though if the features could hold up for climbing one could just put some really long bolts in that sucker and frequently at that if it's that soft. another option might be to cut out right to the slab around the corner with a trad rack and hope it goes to the top Flatiron style. That wouldn't put you on the pointy summit of the Mitten though.

As far as getting down with a single rope is concerned, we noted a belay station mid way up the final 180' pitch so there you go! Apr 20, 2011
Climbed Sok Rot last this weekend and was thinking about getting on Mitten slab this coming. I was looking at the pictures and comments here and no one mentioned and issues with 3rd pitch being 70ft and only being two bolts?? I understand that there is an optional cam, but does that not seem a bit run out? Beta? Plus, how do you rap the fifth pitch if it's more than 180 feet? A 70m rope in half will not cover that distance? Help please.... Nov 7, 2010
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
  5.10b
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
  5.10b
Cool route - great getaway from the crowds. Wear comfy shoes or the slab will win. Did every pitch separately due to the comments about rope drag. All pitches except for the 5th are quite short and go pretty quickly. I found the patina to be very cool and fun to climb on. Lowest quality rock is on pitch 1, but that's about 5.4 climbing. Pitch 2 is a little reachy but certainly all there; the crux is not the main bulge above the 1st belay but a little after that on the thin face after the right-angling traverse. The crux is well-bolted but has some thin crimps and awkward feet. Pitch 4 is kind of heady after leaving the belay because there is a blind bolt. Make sure you hit the big, horizontal traverse and head left for a good 12-15 feet, reach up and there's the bolt. Can't see it 'til you're on top of it.

Other than that a super fun route in a very cool setting. If you dig this route, try Sok Rot, 3 pitch 5.9 right next door. Mar 17, 2010
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
What are the series of anchor bolts to the left of Mitten Slab? New route? Mar 4, 2010
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
We combined the first 4 pitches as well. Use long slings to reduce rope drag. Also, key to go left at beginning of 4th pitch, traverse crack then up and look for bolt. Be careful of brittle rock. Mar 2, 2010
Lynn S
  5.10b
Lynn S  
  5.10b
Nice long route with thought provoking climbing due to the friable nature of some of the flakes. Gets full sun, good during the cooler times of the year, beautiful views.

Tobin and I combined the first 4 pitches into 2, not recommended, and then he led the last long pitch to the top anchor. Running those pitches together led to some nasty rope drag, even with extended slings.

Several short raps (60m rope) back to the ground. Yes, there are many flakes that can snag your rope, we avoided this with prayer and expert pulling technique:) Feb 22, 2009