Avg: 2.6 from 21 votes
Routes in Mitten Slab
|Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Mitten Slab S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||4,093 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||dannys on Jul 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionP.1: (5.4) This route is (presently) the only climb on this wall, so the start should be obvious. Climb an easy slab straight up past several bolts for about 70' to a 2 bolt anchor.
P.2: (5.10b) Climb easy but soft and hollow rock up to the roof and the first bolt of this pitch. Pull out the roof on much better rock (9) and angle right on a nice, varnished slab to another steep bulge. Pull this bulge on small holds and climb up to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 60', 7 bolts, slings are handy.
P.3: (5.8) Climb right off belay to a bolt and then up on easy ground to another bolt. Pass this bolt and a short crux to a crack and follow to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 70' 2 bolts, a #0.75 BD Cam will protect the crack, but it is not necessary.
P.4: (5.9-) Head left off belay to a bolt. Extend this clip and climb up and right to a varnished slab. Edge up this past 3 bolts to a horizontal break and bust left for about 10' to 15'. Clip a bolt and head up and right again to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 80', 6 bolts.
P.5: (5.8) Climb up and left in a gully to a bolt. Climb past more bolts on the excellent face passing up a 2 bolt rap station along the way to the top of the "thumb" where you will find a 4 bolt anchor in some soft rock, 180', 9-10 bolts.